Harden's survey result
Summary
“Easily my best and most enjoyable meal of the year” – Aji Akokomi’s groundbreaking Fitzrovia passion project provides an “interesting take on food from different African countries” and is helping to break the glass ceiling for the level of esteem with which African cuisine is held generally. His latest chef – Ayo Adeyemi, appointed in 2022 – has settled into an impressive stride, providing “wonderful combinations” drawn from across West African traditions: “imaginative flavours that challenge without being overly spicy”. It helps that the food is “all served up with a smile” by the superbly “welcoming” staff, who together with the “refined”, sand-walled interior (with art commissioned for the restaurant itself, along with the crockery and cutlery) help create “a top-class experience”. In early 2024, the team finally brought home the Michelin star so long overdue to the restaurant but slightly puzzlingly withheld from former chef, Theo Clench. (See also Akara).
Summary
Ayo Adeyemi is now at the stoves of Aji Akokomi’s groundbreaking Fitzrovia West African, after the departure of Theo Clench in March 2022. Clench held a Michelin star at his previous gig (Bonham’s) and was instantly awarded one at his new home (Cycene) so it’s slightly puzzling why one was withheld from him here? Perhaps Ayo will eventually succeed where Theo did not? The intriguing cooking uses West African ingredients and spicing as inspiration for an ‘haute’ take on these cuisines, and though feedback was limited this year it seems to continue at the same “brilliant, creative and delicious” level set by his predecessor. Add in the vibey interior using a palette inspired by African village culture, and the establishment has helped move the goalposts of what can be expected in terms of sophistication for an African-inspired venture in London. BREAKING NEWS. In September 2023, Aji announced a spin-off venture in Borough Yards called Akara – also West African but in a cheaper, more accessible format.
Summary
“An incredibly special dining experience, like nowhere else in London” – Aji Akokomi has achieved something “totally unique, supremely atmospheric and slick” at his Fitzrovian homage to West Africa. The warm bronzed interior is all urban sophistication, but channels an earthy African energy with its impeccably chosen (and, for the most part, specially commissioned) décor and tableware. The open kitchen was on our visit predominantly staffed by Europeans and Asians, but they deliver “an exquisite and well thought-out” extended tasting menu, mixing Nigerian, Ghanaian and Senegalese culinary influences, and with an “on-point wine pairing” option. Head chef, Theo Clench moved on in March 2022 just prior to our annual diners’ poll – no public appointment of a successor has been made as yet.
Summary
After three years of planning and during the torrid times of October 2020, Aji Akokomi launched his Fitzrovian homage to West African ‘jollof’ cuisine – mixing Nigerian, Ghanaian and Senegalese influences into an ambitious tasting menu format. Not a man to be easily deflected, he emerged from the pandemic and departure of his initial star-chef (William Chilila) to win post-lockdown raves from The Standard’s Jimi Famurewa in June 2021: “agog at the sumptuousness of it all… Akoko’s triumph is to re-energise tradition with a flash of modernity, to draw out the sophistication, elegance and undulating flavour complexity of food that, when it isn’t ignored, is mostly celebrated for its humble, homespun qualities”. Our early survey feedback was scarcely less upbeat, and it’s on that basis that we’ve rated it.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Akoko?
21 Berners Street, London, W1T 3LJ
Restaurant details
Prices
| Availability | 2 courses | 3 courses |  |
 |
 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lunch | £55.00 |  |
|
|
| Cost | Availability | Courses | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Menu1 | 120.00 | Always available | 9 |
| Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £42.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £0.00 |
| Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Service | 15.00% |
21 Berners Street, London, W1T 3LJ
Opening hours
| Monday | CLOSED |
| Tuesday | 6 pm‑11 pm |
| Wednesday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 6 pm‑11 pm |
| Thursday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 6 pm‑11 pm |
| Friday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 6 pm‑11 pm |
| Saturday | 12 pm‑4 pm, 6 pm‑11 pm |
| Sunday | CLOSED |
Best West African restaurants nearby
West African restaurant in Brixton
West African restaurant in Borough
West African restaurant in Seven Sisters
Best similarly priced restaurants nearby
British, Modern restaurant in Chinatown
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
Chinese restaurant in Westminster
