Harden's says
Ross Shonhan adds to his portfolio of rock ‘n’ roll ramen bars and izakayas (which includes Bone Daddies and Shackfuyu) with this (impressively large - 170 covers) offshoot of Flesh and Buns, this time in Fitzrovia, offering Peruvian-Nikkei fusion cuisine as well as Japanese faves. The original opened in Covent Garden in 2013 and has won consistent praise among our reporters for food that’s “a taste sensation” and its “party vibe”.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“A taste-tingling sensation of Japanese and other Asian delights” – the “most amazing bao buns”, plus “Korean wings, poke bowls and sushi that are all so good” – win a big thumbs up for this duo of “great Asian-fusion restaurants” (under the same ownership as Bone Daddies). If anything, their star has risen since they cut back to just two branches in Fitzrovia and Covent Garden.
Summary
“Very busy and bustling” – these “vibey” izakayas are part of Bone Daddies group, and provide an “inventive” mix of dishes from a wide-ranging menu: sushi, filled hirata buns, ceviche (not all branches) and a wide selection of other dishes. In addition to those in Fitzrovia and Covent Garden, they briefly added a Kensington site in 2022, but it is set to be converted to a Bone Daddies after just a few months.
Summary
“Delicious steamed bao buns with great fillings” are the star turn at these “loud” and dynamic izakayas (Japanese gastropubs) in Covent Garden and Fitzrovia, backed up by raw fish and hot-stone rice dishes. The newer, bigger Fitzrovia branch, near Oxford Circus, adds a selection of Peruvian-fusion Nikkei plates. They are part of the Bone Daddies group, whose Australian founder, Ross Shonhan, departed in 2020 for pastures new in Dubai.
Summary
“A great night out, with fab food and drinks” is the accepted wisdom on Ross Shonhan’s rocking izakayas, whose original, Soho-basement location looks set to be eclipsed by its new Fitzrovia sibling – an impressively large (170 covers) space, which adds Peruvian-Nikkei fusion-dishes and an expanded range of smoked meats to its more-established repertoire of Japanese faves (sushi, sashimi, filled steamed buns). It’s “amazing food that will leave you feeling VERY FULL”. Ratings are dragged down, though, by reporters who find the flavour combinations “odd”, or the overall package too expensive. Top Tip – “given that the main menu can be pricey: the set menu before 6pm or tasting menu is by far the best way to go”.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
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