The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell visited a new Georgian restaurant “so minimalist I’m struggling to describe it, which I suppose is the point. It looks like nothing; a bare cupboard in the corner of a disused flat.”
It takes its name from khinkali, traditional Georgian twisted dumplings – “bouncy stodge with different sauces” – lightened up here for more delicate tastes, and stuffed with lamb, pumpkin and not entirely authentic langoustine and wagyu.
William made no secret that he “went for dumplings, but preferred all the other bits” – namely aubergine in a rich and sweet satsebeli sauce; a smooth rabbit pâté served with spongy toast called nazuki; lamb chashuli, a Georgian stew that could feed an army in deep winter; and best of all dolmas – “pretty, green cabbage leaves, cooked perfectly thus surrendering their chew but retaining enough bite. They encased soft and gorgeous prawns and came in an elegant yellow sauce of tarragon, in which bobbed salmon roe. Georgian? I don’t know, but I didn’t care either, they were so good.”
William Sitwell - 2024-07-28
Drinks
Extras
