The Times
Jay Rayner paid a visit to what he bills as “the best fancy kosher restaurant in central London” – if only because it is “the only fancy kosher restaurant in central London”. Regardless of the cooking, which Jay found pretty uneven, it was packed on a Tuesday night with a clientele that trusts Tony Page on the basis that he has catered for high-profile kosher events for decades, everywhere from The Dorchester hotel to Blenheim Palace.
The chicken soup is good – “as it damn well should be” – and so is the lemon meringue pie. But a version of Nobu’s black cod is “limp and soft” and arrives drenched in a gummy teriyaki sauce – and it costs even more than the Nobu original.
For Jay – who is Jewish but proclaims himself a “heretic… who has no time for the annoyingly picky eater of a Jewish god” – the worst dishes are those compromised by the need to stick to kosher rules, such as a veal chop served with a risotto “which should contain copious butter and cheese but doesn’t, because of the whole meat-dairy thing… Vegan parmesan is the worst thing in the world, a stinking insult, with all the subtlety of a chemically seasoned Wotsit.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-04-13
