Harden's survey result
Summary
“Things have gone crazy, price-wise, but it’s still magic” – that’s the perennial and worsening trade-off at Ruth Rogers’ world-famous, Thames-side icon, tucked away between the Thames and a Hammersmith backstreet. Started in 1987 in the canteen of her late-hubbie’s architectural practice (in partnership with Rose Gray), it’s still faithful to its mission of “brilliant, simple, honest Italian food, from top-quality ingredients, superbly executed”. And while “the food is uncomplicated in the sense that it is not fussy, there is nevertheless a sure-footed sophistication in its preparation”. So far, so good, and pretty much everyone agrees that if money were no object a visit here (especially outside by the river in summer) is “just perfect”. But verdicts on the ever-fraught juggle here between price, quality and value are increasingly going haywire. To its most loyal habitués (often arriving by chauffered car from posher postcodes): “is it expensive, yes, but worth it? Absolutely. I’ve never had a disappointing meal and have been going since 1990”. To those who ‘know the price of milk’ however, it’s “monumentally overpriced” and increasingly risks “spiralling to the clip-joint level” (“It’s actually beyond a joke now, financially. Gone beyond very expensive into ‘you don’t actually want normal people here at all, do you?’ territory”). “It would also help if they could get their staff organised”. The “casual” service from posh public school girls on their ‘gap y’ar’ has always been of the love-it-or-hate-it variety, but can plain jar at such a premium price.
Summary
“Just keeping on delivering outstanding quality, year after year, with the highest-quality seasonal Italian food that’s not over-elaborate” – Ruth Rogers’ iconic Thames-side café in an obscure Hammersmith backstreet remains one of the most talked-about destinations in our annual diners’ poll. Since its debut in 1987, it has helped drive culinary fashion. “They take the best fresh ingredients and the open-plan kitchen allows you to watch them work their magic” – an “exceptional” ingredient-led approach that’s now practically ubiquitous in top kitchens. And it popularised the idea that top-notch food can be enjoyed in a “casual” setting, without flunkies and flummery: the bright, “noisy”, “packed-in” space having originally been created as the canteen for her late husband’s architectural practice (it helps that “it has a gorgeous riverside setting, especially outside on the terrace on a summer’s day”). But, “while it’s simply great, my God, do you pay for that simplicity”. Yet again, it tops our list of ‘most overpriced’ restaurants as its “absurd prices seem to be multiplied by the number of years it has been open”. As always our reporters have mixed feelings on this question of value. Some are unquestioning (“it’s expensive, but you never feel ripped off”). For others, it’s a struggle (“it never disappoints… so long as the heart attack when you get the bill doesn’t end the evening prematurely”). And this year, those who “find it increasingly difficult to justify the expense” are gaining ground, particularly as the “beautiful” servers have seemed “very flakey” or “impersonal” on numerous occasions this year. “If you live near an airport, consider a day trip to Milan for lunch instead: it would work out cheaper…”. Top Tip – “the winter weekday lunch is absolutely fantastic value and so delicious”.
Summary
“Soldiering on with flair and confidence” – Ruth Rogers’ world-famous café is “still the ‘go-to’ location for “exceptional quality”, “ingredient-led”, “expertly served” Italian cooking” (“even Italian winemakers are impressed by its authenticity and quality!”) Stuck, “out-of-the-way”, between a quiet Hammersmith backstreet and the Thames, a chic crowd (many of them regulars who live in the centre of town) cram themselves into this bright, unadorned room which started life as the staff canteen for Ruthie’s late husband, Richard Rogers’ architectural practice (“is it my imagination or are the tables getting even closer together nowadays?”). But, while practically “no one can doubt the quality of the food, even so the gobsmacking prices are hard to justify” and it is yet again voted the most overpriced restaurant in London in our annual diners’ poll. As is now customary, comments mix awe at its virtues with frustration at the level of value: “I do love it, but I always get buyer’s remorse afterwards” as “the pricing leaves a bitter taste after a fine meal”… “and yet we still go back…” Top Tips – 1) On a warm day, its location becomes a reliable attraction in itself: “it’s enchanting sitting outside on the terrace beside the Thames”. 2) When it comes to the menu, “it changes so much that it’s pointless to pick out too many individual dishes but the fish and shellfish are cooked with great skill and attention to detail; and timeless favourites include the Ribollita and the Chocolate Nemesis”.
Summary
“Yes, the food is simply presented, yes, there are paper tablecloths, yes, it’s expensive… but it’s worth every penny!!” That’s still the winning verdict on Ruth Rogers’ world-famous canteen, where it’s “so difficult to get a table”, despite a hard-to-find location in a Hammersmith backstreet, and relatively humble – albeit “slightly starry” – premises. (The site started life as the staff canteen for husband, Richard Rogers’ architectural practice). That “this is the restaurant that pioneered the idea of produce first”, further enthuses its devotees, many of whom are longtime regulars (“we’ve been coming for 25 years and have never been disappointed”). And yet, despite all the positives, many diners just can’t stomach a bill that can seem “terrifying”, or even plain “ludicrous”. Hence, for the umpteenth year, it’s voted London’s most overpriced restaurant by the sizeable minority who feel “it may be absolutely exceptional every time, but on occasion, you do think they’re just taking the piss”. Is there a way of reconciling these two competing camps? A fair middle view is as follows: “£540 for four people with one bottle of cheapish wine and a couple of gins. Can a basic Italian meal be worth that much? Well, on a beautiful summer evening on the terrace by the Thames, it feels like being on holiday: so overpriced it may be… but worth every penny!”
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at The River Café?
Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd, London, W6 9HA
Restaurant details
The River Café Restaurant Diner Reviews
"I’ve eaten here occasionally since it first opened, but never been a fan. I agree the quality of the ingredients is very good, but not much is done to them that I couldn’t do at home. And at much less cost. So I would say as well as most overpriced, as per your list, it vies as most overrated with the Mansour au Quat’ Saisons. Yesterday was different. Grouse at £74 was served virtually raw. Americans at the next table, were so astounded as to stop at our table to check. To be fair when the Maitre D’ was informed, he was also astonished, and insisted it be reheated, and removed from the bill. But too late, despite his genuine concern, and the experience essentially ruined, as was the grouse of course. A one off maybe, but something so wrong shouldn’t happen, especially in a one star Michelin"
"Fabulous bill but also fabulous visit"
"I am back in love with the River Cafe. The food is uncomplicated in the sense it is not fussy but there is a sure sophisticated touch - be under no illusions this is fine dining. Meriting its Michelin star. It is generous too - yes, expensive but a proper tranche of Turbot and always good portions. Ask for a table inside that is by one of the French doors - out of the heat and a good breeze . I had a wonderful steak tartar with broad beans a pecorino - who would have thought it. "
"Langoustine needed the intestine removing before cooking. Small tables."
Prices
 Drinks |
|
|---|---|
| Wine per bottle | £55.00 |
| Filter Coffee | £12.00 |
 Extras |
|
|---|---|
| Bread | £0.00 |
| Service | 10.00% |
Thames Wharf, Rainville Rd, London, W6 9HA
Opening hours
| Monday | 12:30 pm‑2:15 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Tuesday | 12:30 pm‑2:15 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Wednesday | 12:30 pm‑2:15 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Thursday | 12:30 pm‑2:15 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Friday | 12:30 pm‑2:15 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Saturday | 12:30 pm‑2:30 pm, 7 pm‑9 pm |
| Sunday | 12 pm‑3 pm |
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