RestaurantsLondonMaida ValeW9

Harden's says

This grand early 19th-century pub in Maida Vale has been taken over by the team behind the Pelican in Notting Hill and The Bull in Charlbury. You'll find stripped-down interiors and 'nostalgic British food' in the main bar, plus a smarter Grill Room upstairs.

survey result

Summary

£68
  £££
3
Good
3
Good
2
Average
* Based on a three course dinner, half a bottle of wine, coffee, cover charge, service and VAT.

This “great local Maida Vale gastropub” opened to considerable fanfare after an overhaul five years ago, and has now settled down with “a city-wide reputation for its Sunday lunches – you’ll need to book well ahead”. There’s “a good selection of wine, beers and spirits”, and it’s “dog-friendly”, too.

Summary

£63
  £££
3
Good
3
Good
3
Good
* Based on a three course dinner, half a bottle of wine, coffee, cover charge, service and VAT.

This “great local pub (doggy-friendly too)” in Maida Vale has found some equilibrium after an up-and-down performance since an acclaimed opening under Harcourt Inns in 2018. Highly rated chef-director Harry Harris left the group last summer, so the menu has become less exciting – but our latest survey indicates that it is winning over its (now smaller) following in our survey.

Summary

£60
  £££
2
Average
2
Average
3
Good
* Based on a three course dinner, half a bottle of wine, coffee, cover charge, service and VAT.

This gentrified Maida Vale boozer, which was one of the Harcourt Inns’s original properties, opened to great acclaim in 2018 thanks to its “great Henry Harris menu”. But reports after its first year of operation were mixed. For its supporters, “churning out dishes like sweetbreads, rabbit and brain shows it isn’t your average pub”, and its “famous Sunday lunch is hard to beat”. But a number of former fans scent “a steady descent to mediocrity”: they feel staff can appear “unconcerned” or “ditsy”, and think the food is “priced as something very special but sub-par”. In late October 2020 Henry Harris announced he was moving on from the group.

For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).

Have you eaten at The Hero?

55 Shirland Rd, London, W9 2JD

Restaurant details

Highchair,Menu
No dress code
65

What the Newspaper Critics are saying

Evening Standard

“This might just be the best-looking pub in the world”, pronounced David Ellis in his review of the latest project from the team behind the Pelican in Notting Hill and the Bull in Charlbury.

Noting that pubs serving high-quality food are “decidedly the thing at the minute”, David stressed that The Hero was well behind the most prominent current example, the Devonshire off Piccadilly Circus, in the food stakes.

“But Christ, is the Hero a looker. It’s a Dezeen wet dream of stripped wood and plaster walls, of barley leg stools and candle-topped tables…. The main dining room, a floor up and due to open at the end of June with an entirely new menu, is a proper knockout — Sessions Arts Club but with, here’s hoping, better grub.”

David Ellis - 2024-06-02

The Times

Giles Coren was mightily impressed by the latest incarnation of this grand tavern, whose “ambition … smelt to me of the Devonshire in Soho – the standout pub, restaurant and general catering success of last year”. 

The interior, he said, was “magnificent. Everything pared down to the bare wood, dark, unvarnished, the metalwork and beer taps in that nutty, tarnished brass that evokes a steampunk tavern style of old London town in the 1830s that never truly existed until now. Or at least until 1994.”

The food was pretty good, too: lamb ribs and cheese toasties from the ‘snacks’, plus a menu of very “pubby” dishes such as sausage and mash; ham, egg and chips; shepherd’s pie; and half a roast chicken with chips and salad for two, followed by treacle pudding and “an almost vengefully sharp lemon tart”.

Giles ate in the bar because the restaurant with open kitchen upstairs (and the cocktail bar on the second floor) were not yet in operation. “But I think you should book anyway, if it’s open by the time you read this. Because from what I’ve seen it’s going to be good. Very good.”

Giles Coren - 2024-06-16

The Observer

Jay Rayner braved an “awfully polite mosh pit” made up of the “raucous west London herd” – very much not his kind of people – to sample the delights of a “shabby-chic” pub now under new management (and already well received in the Times and Evening Standard) that were rather more to his taste.

Eating in the ground-floor bar (the upstairs dining is not yet open), Jay found a “menu of very nice, simple things”, including fishcakes, sausage and mash, and ham, egg and chips, all priced in the mid-teens and constituting “an extremely decent take on the modern pub repertoire”.

The kitchen’s secret weapon is its pastry, which twice sent Jay into raptures. First with a “humble-sounding cheese and onion pie… one of those bottom-of-the-bill dishes which comes out on to the stage and steals the show”, with “the shortest of shortcrusts; a gorgeous miracle of butter and flour, which holds together more out of good manners than anything to do with kitchen chemistry”. Then came “an astonishingly good lemon tart: exquisitely thin, cracker-crisp pastry holds a zippy lemon crème of ineffable lightness and wobble.”

You know what to order. 

Jay Rayner - 2024-06-30

Prices

Traditional European menu

Starter Main Veggies Pudding
£11.00 £22.50 £5.00 £5.00
Drinks  
Wine per bottle £25.00
Filter Coffee £3.00
Extras  
Service 12.50%
55 Shirland Rd, London, W9 2JD
Opening hours
Monday12 pm‑11 pm
Tuesday12 pm‑11 pm
Wednesday12 pm‑11 pm
Thursday12 pm‑11 pm
Friday12 pm‑11 pm
Saturday12 pm‑11 pm
Sunday12 pm‑9 pm

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