Harden's says
Maison Bab, a branch of Le Bab, shares this site.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“I know that I am not the first person to have been blown away by the imagination displayed in this deconstruction of the kebab!” – this no-longer-secret 10-seater counter in the basement of Kingly Court’s Le Bab aims to rocket-propel the kebab taste-palate to new heights, with a multi-course tasting menu served (smeared?) onto a special heated countertop (you scoop with your fingers). “Tasty… good patter from the chefs… engaging… quite the experience”. In August 2023, it relaunched with Pamir Zeydan as the new head chef (although he had already been working here with departing Manu Canales). The sort of dishes to expect? ‘Dover sole kebab delivered on an ironed hispi cabbage taco with roasted red pepper purée’.
Summary
“Real wow factor” inspires fans of this not-very-secret counter, in the basement of Covent Garden’s Maison Bab, which aims ‘ to push kebabs as far as they can go’. “The service experience – with food served by the chef onto the actual surface of the special heated counter directly in front of you” (no plates, you scoop it up in your fingers) – “brings a brilliant sense of fun to the whole meal”. “But it’s not at the expense of serious culinary intent”: ex-Gavroche chef, Manu Canales creates “original food, with exceptional quality of ingredients and cooking”.
Summary
“The not-very-well-kept-secret kitchen counter in the basement of Kingly Court’s Le Bab is gimmicky” – “you eat kebabs elevated to haute cuisine with no implements, directly from the specially-made heated counter” – but it’s “a strange but exhilarating experience” that, on practically all accounts, is rated as “sensational”. “Manu (formerly of Le Gavroche) has created a truly exceptional, creative-yet-always-delicious menu that is far better than it needs to be” and “the execution leaves no stone unturned”. “Some of the best value and most innovative fine dining in London. If you can get a table, GO!”
Summary
“Taking the kebab to a whole new level”: this sibling to Kingly Court’s Le Bab occupies Covent Garden’s Mercers Walk development and – in a style reminiscent of Bubbledogs – combines a regular ground floor “cheap ’n’ cheerful” diner (serving regular mezze and kebabs – formula price £46), with a much more ambitious basement venue, Kebab Queen (price shown). In the cellar, behind a fake take-away shop-front, is a ten-seater venue where the initial kebab (or rather ‘kebabito’ as they call it) is merely the first stage of an ambitious £60 six-course tasting experience from chef Manu Canales, served directly onto a heated counter (there’s no plates or cutlery). “I was completely cynical about Kebab Queen, but was bowled over by their wickedly tasty and absurdly good-value tasting menu. There’s no way on earth they are making money on it?”.
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Kebab Queen?
4 Mercer Walk, London, WC2
Restaurant details
Prices
Drinks | |
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Wine per bottle | £40.00 |
Filter Coffee | £6.00 |
Extras | |
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Service | 12.50% |
4 Mercer Walk, London, WC2
Opening hours
Monday | CLOSED |
Tuesday | CLOSED |
Wednesday | 7:30 pm‑11 pm |
Thursday | 7:30 pm‑11 pm |
Friday | 7:30 pm‑11 pm |
Saturday | 1 pm‑3:30 pm, 7:30 pm‑11 pm |
Sunday | CLOSED |
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