The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell found a “deliriously good” 400-year-old cellar “with a menu that sings with the ingredients of this part of Dorset – produce that grows along and around the Jurassic coast”.
But it was chef-patron Harriet Mansell’s “saucing wizardry that elevates it to the sublime” – her refusal of the “signature splash” which many chefs deploy, which allowed each of her sauces to “stand proud and unique and magnificently tasty”.
Highlights of the meal included a South American-influenced sea bass crudo that was a “tango beneath the cliffs of Chippel Bay” and a plate of gnocchi on a “nettle sauce that delivered the beguiling flavour of an English woodland”.
William Sitwell - 2024-07-14