The Sunday Telegraph
“This is how I’d wish all restaurants would be.”
William Sitwell was in Manchester to review Higher Ground, where he sat (comfortably, for once) at the concrete counter (“delectable to touch and somehow set at the perfect height”) and enjoyed the view into the kitchen.
“The produce is firmly British, some of the cooking struck me as Italian-influenced with a dash of Scandi flair.”
The chefs succeeded in “tickling the taste buds all the way without unnecessary flotsam and jetsam”. Jay Rayner would enjoy the “sloppy, awkward to eat, dripping, cumbersome” crab toast, which William described as “absolutely, bell-ringingly delicious”. (****)
William Sitwell - 2023-10-01
Drinks
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