The Guardian
Grace Dent was initially baffled by the Unity Place development opposite Milton Keynes station – “a block that looks like The Office’s Wernham Hogg building”. Once she found her way into chef Dipna Anand’s “elegant, absolutely charming” restaurant though – a space of “pale floors” and “greenery” that somehow reminded her of Santa Monica – she happily tucked into a “delicious Punjabi and south Indian menu with a smattering of modern British-Indian favourites”.
The £16 vegetarian thali was “a complete platter of joy… light, thoughtful cooking that determinedly sets out to incapacitate you, with lovely, kind service”. It included an “outrageous secret-recipe raita that the chefs claim to be merely Greek yoghurt with cucumber and salt – which I don’t believe. “
Grace was particularly taken by the vada pav – deep-fried potato dumpling and chutney inside a fluffy dinner roll, and the Indian state of Maharashtra’s spicy answer to the chip butty beloved of northern England. “Dipna Anand’s version sings with mustard and curry leaves and arrives with a rich, sweet tamarind sauce in a little silver bowl.”
Grace Dent - 2024-06-16
Drinks
Extras
