The Observer
Jay Rayner thoroughly approved of this new all-day venture in Manchester’s Deansgate Square development, a “smart, utilitarian” place which describes itself as “a cross between a French bistro and an American diner” and offers “familiar dishes that are the best versions of themselves”.
“What you will not get are gimmicks or spins or, God help us, twists. Nothing is twisted. Nothing is spun. What you read on the menu is exactly what you get.”
A case in point was the rotisserie chicken: “no special rubs or sauces”, just dark, sticky, deeply savoury gravy – “the best kind”, according to Jay. “Even if you don’t order any chicken, order that and pour it over everything. Pour it over a friend.”
Rhubarb pie, cooked in a deep fryer, is “a school dinner pudding raised to a place of glory and wonder. You could easily get yourself through double maths thinking it.”
Jay Rayner - 2024-04-29
Drinks
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