The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell painted an apocalyptically bleak picture of a city centre all-but deserted save for a smattering of vape shops and nail bars, redeemed dramatically by a Japanese izakaya run by Brits.
Every mouthful he ate was good, but the joint’s real greatness was shown in two dishes: prawn katsu sando was “a lavish mix of flavour-bomb and wit” – “a creation that would sweep the board, year after year, at the global Fish Finger Sandwich of the Year Awards”. Almost its equal for both flavour and wit was a pud, “tira-miso, which, honestly, knocks any Italian number out of the park. Rich and fluffy, it has everything a great tiramisu might but with the miso giving it the subtlest hint of saltiness”.
Forget Robin Hood: for William, “Kushi-Ya is nothing less than the saviour of Nottingham.”
William Sitwell - 2024-11-10