The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell returned to the “ashes of abandonment that characterises the modern city of Nottingham” to discover a restaurant of “grand troglodyte glory” set in the vast red-brick cellar of an old Victorian coach house.
Famously averse to multi-course tasting menus – “my only dietary, my single unremitting intolerance” – he opted for a three-course menu, although various petits fours and “optional” courses, including chicken skin, caviar and cheese, bulked this up to 14 dishes.
He was thrilled by chef Alex Bond’s skill at “marrying natural flavours (lamb, aubergine, olives), but achieving it with such finesse that you can’t accuse him of stating the obvious”. The meal was a “mesmerising, highly enjoyable and great-value triumph of flair, confidence and professionalism”.
William Sitwell - 2025-02-02