The Sunday Times
Giles Coren headed to the home city of Andrew Flintoff, Sir Tom Finney and Andrew Park (of Wallace & Gromit fame) to visit a new restaurant run by a trio with impressive northcountry CVs – chef-director Oli Martin (ex-Northcote and Hipping Hall), head chef Sean Wrest (ex-Roots in York) and manager Sam Haigh (ex-Black Swan, Oldstead).
He was glad he went – and glad he accidentally pre-ordered the eight-course tasting menu (although he struggled to eat everything put in front of him). “These are supremely gifted and thoughtful chefs. This is proper northern hospitality: original, modern, sleek — no foie gras, caviar, lobster, airs or graces…. I loved it. You will too.”
What’s more, it was “the sort of meal I would want to feed to someone who had heard what I did for a living and wanted to tell me that he didn’t understand the point of fancy food (they are legion, I’m afraid). Because this is certainly the point of it: to feed you things you’ve eaten before, without too much fuss, in ways that make you love them in a whole new way.”
Giles Coren - 2024-11-03
