The Guardian
Grace Dent throughly approved of chef Robin Read’s debut restaurant in “Britain’s most civilised postcode”, which she clearly liked from the moment she stepped inside: “Gosh, this is a gorgeous room: rustic floorboards, high ceilings painted black, spotlights, peculiar art, fine cutlery and informal yet sleek, kind service.”
It’s tasting menus only, but in a no-waste rather than a bullying chef’s-ego way, according to Grace – there’s even a “waste vegetable broth” served with the sourdough bread.
“It’s hard to fault anything about the Counter, because this is precise, accomplished cooking that feeds you classily but plentifully, then aims to finish you off entirely with the dessert courses.”
Grace Dent - 2024-07-14