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Dan Cox, previously head chef at Fera, took over this former sawmill and organic farm on the Devon/Cornwall border in 2018 an spent five years planning and planting and raising rare-breed livestock in order to open this 25-cover ultra-sustainable restaurant with an open kitchen which occupies an old barn on the farm.
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Culinary innovation intertwines seamlessly with environmental stewardship, plus with unparalleled service and flavour” at Dan Cox’s February 2023 newcomer: part of an 120-acre farm with bakery and restaurant that “embraces traditional preservation techniques and locally sourced ingredients” with “a dedication to low-intervention, regenerative farming not only eschewing artificial fertilisers and pesticides but also reintroducing heritage crops, long forgotten by commercial channels”. All reports on it are outstanding, including numerous best meals of the year, and the upshot is “a lovely ethos and amazing quality” in the 25-cover restaurant, where the main offering is a nine-course tasting menu for £105 per person. Converts say: “It stands as a beacon of excellence, inspiring others to follow suit in preserving and enhancing the very environment that nurtures their creations”. Top Menu Tip – “Venison sourced from the local estate fulfils a dual purpose, ensuring habitat preservation while providing exquisite flavours on the plate. Similarly, matured sheep, aged six years, grace the menu, their meat meticulously dry-aged on-site in a DIY ageing room. Even the bones, once depleted of flavour, find new life as part of the crockery glaze”.
Summary
“Without a doubt this was well and away my best meal of the year!” – “Dan Cox’s delightful, new regenerative farm-to-fork project” opened in February 2023 and is destined for great things, inspiring rapturous early reports. “You can instantly tell that he owes a lot to his long tenure under Simon Rogan at L’Enclume and then Fera”. He took over this former sawmill and organic farm on the Devon/Cornwall border in 2018 and spent five years planning and planting and raising rare-breed livestock in order to open this 25-cover ultra-sustainable restaurant with an open kitchen which occupies an old barn on the farm. The result is a “a wonderfully sparse, yet cosy and warm place” whose cuisine inspires a full-on rave: “we had the 13-course tasting menu, which was innovative and totally delicious, with everything sourced from the farm or like-minded local producers with the menu dependent on availability. The matching wines were also excellent. Well worth a journey!” – “The Lion’s Mane steak was powerful and full of umami notes, so much so that even our diehard carnivore of a daughter enjoyed it. The pork belly and leg dish was exquisite. Hit all the right notes in this unstuffy dining experience where the chef serves your food. After only three months open it thoroughly deserves its Michelin Green Star and is destined to go far”. (In his August 2023 review, The Telegraph’s William Sitwell also pronounced himself a fan: “I can honestly say this was a collection of magnificent, original and quite breathtaking food”.)
For 33 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
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St Mellion, Saltash, PL12 6RL
Restaurant details
Prices
Drinks | |
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Wine per bottle | £0.00 |
Filter Coffee | £0.00 |
Extras | |
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Service | 10.00% |
St Mellion, Saltash, PL12 6RL
Opening hours
Monday | CLOSED |
Tuesday | CLOSED |
Wednesday | CLOSED |
Thursday | 10 am‑3 pm |
Friday | 10 am‑3 pm |
Saturday | 10 am‑3 pm |
Sunday | 10 am‑3 pm |
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