The Times
Giles Coren humble-bragged that he was not the first but was possibly the last reviewer to visit this pocket-sized venue in a shipping container – “the only restaurant in Britain that you enter through the loos” – that after eight years is finally about to move to appropriately swanky new premises at Oughtibridge Mill, on the edge of the Peak District.
“The vibe is faintly reminiscent of Gareth Ward’s revered Ynyshir in Ceredigion,” Giles reckoned, and he was fulsome in his praise of both the cooking and the “soft-drink pairing menu, which was revelatory” – “I left Sheffield stuffed and sober, delirious with the thrill of such good food for so little money and very excited about coming back to try the new place in the summer.”
Clearly going through what Doctor Johnson would diagnose as a “tired of life” phase, Giles concluded: “I have no use for London at the moment. Next week I’m in Oxford, the week after in Weymouth.
Giles Coren - 2024-03-03