The Times
Claire Sawers broadly welcomed the first tasting menu restaurant in Stirling, whose name, the Gaelic for “on the other hand”, is a reference to founder Ian Whitely’s other hospitality business in town, the Meraki cocktail bar.
The cooking is multinational, with edamame, gnocchi, kimchi and gazpacho all making an appearance, and sometimes the complexity of flavours “clashes more than gels”.
But, Claire says, “You’re there to be impressed, confounded and thrilled — and there is a little of all of that going on here.” High points on the menu include an “incredible pale” Peruvian tiger’s milk sauce; a “fabulously tender half-moon of shredded beef”; and fried gnocchi in a feta foam with smoked cherry tomatoes and seaweed butter.
Claire Sawers - 2024-06-09
