Unrepentant townie Jay Rayner found himself thoroughly at home in “an outpost of urban sensibility… cos-playing as an English country pub” – the second restaurant in the area from London-based art dealer Ivor Braka, who also owns the nearby Gunton Arms.
North Italian chef Alberto Mesini cooks a Spanish-inspired menu that’s “full of sunshine, soft winds and tidy ideas… So just your basic early evening in Granada, even on a grey winter’s day in Norfolk”.
If not quite Gallic bistro cooking, it’s still “solid and satisfying, rather than the stuff of thrills and gasps” – as exemplified by a venison tagine or a venison and pancetta ragù served with tagliatelle, which “source their star ingredient from the deer park surrounding the Gunton Arms, where you can first admire the wildlife and then later eat it”
Jay Rayner - 2024-03-03
Drinks
Extras
