The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was impressed by this “properly fabulous” restaurant from Ivan Tisdall-Downes on the former site of Pensions – a handsome converted barn on the Netherwood Estate near the Herefordshire- Worcestershire border.
His meal began with two excellent starters – chalk stream trout and a ‘regeneration risotto’ of local grains – which were followed by ‘Ryeland mutton’ that was “literally the finest mutton I have ever tasted… earthy, rich and melting…, chocolatey and with such deep flavour I felt like running to the abattoir, standing in front of the lambs and screaming, ‘No, wait. They’ll taste better in a few months!’”
Then finally ‘marrowmel’, a dessert of bone marrow served in the bone, which you scoop out with a spoon. “It’s a bone marrow crème brûlée – so it’s striking and witty and, God, so sweet, naughty and moreish.”
William Sitwell - 2024-09-01
