The Times
Giles Coren was impressed by a “not especially celebrated or show-offy, but very intelligent-looking” restaurant from chef-patron Stephen Andrews, an “admirable self-taught talent, with the attendant highs and lows of a go-for-it mentality”.
Giles divided the short blackboard menu of dishes into “rugged” and “poncey”, and much preferred the former: namely, a starter of cod collar and chimichurri that was “a triumph the memory of which I shall carry with me to my dying day”, the flesh “slippery and hot, salty and full of sex, dribbling juice and fat, what a glory”.
A main course of skrei cod was “okay, but mimsy and overpresented”, but its accompaniment, a small jug of roasted fish-bone and red wine jus (“I’d say ‘gravy’)”, was “sublime, like the beefiest sauce bordelaise, and I dipped with glee every single one of the excellent potato wedges”.
Giles Coren - 2025-04-06