Ashtead, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The culinary jewel in Chiswick’s crown” – this cousin to Chez Bruce “located in a side street off Chiswick High Road” is many diners’ idea of the “perfect neighbourhood restaurant”. Having “survived the enlarging of the space” and a “change of staff a couple of years ago, things have now completely settled in as has chef Greg Wellman”; and its performance this year in our annual diners’ poll was incredibly consistent. The modern French cuisine “is a bit cheffier and more refined than before”, with “lots of interesting Asian/Japanese touches”: “interesting, but not too cutting edge” and “most importantly full of flavour”. There’s also a “fascinating” wine list to match (“the commitment to wine, as opposed to just seeing it as a profit centre, is noteworthy” with “an outstanding sommelier who will suggest perfect accompaniment for the dishes but also provide answers to far-fetched requests!”). “It’s all combined with seamlessly efficient service… not as easy to do as they make it look, I suspect!”. “Sit outside on a warm day”. Top Menu Tips – “excellent pasta/ravioli plates add to excellent versions of more classic dishes, and a recent rabbit terrine was world class”.

‘Good in parts’ is perhaps the fairest description of this comfy dining room in a five-star hotel near St James’s Park tube, which continues to put in a ‘Curate’s Egg’ performance. Recruiting ace chef, Sally Abé, a couple of years ago helped boost the profile of what was hitherto seen merely as a business venue convenient for parliamentarians from nearby Westminster. Nowadays, she presents “an interesting menu” championing British produce and recipes, resulting in “fabulous food, beautifully presented”. On the downside, service can be “variable” and “while the decor is nice, the ambience is rather soulless as the restaurant is situated in the rather cavernous bowels of a hotel”.

“Just a fantastic highlight for South London” – for the 19th year running, Bruce Poole & Nigel Platts-Martin’s “outstanding neighbourhood restaurant” (in “a lovely location by Wandsworth Common”) is voted London’s No. 1 favourite destination in our annual diners’ poll, drawing adulation from across the capital as well as adoration from the immediately adjacent postcodes. It’s “a high-class restaurant but an unfussy one”: chef Matt Christmas’s modern British cooking is “imaginative” – “with lovely touches throughout” – but “not with silly complications”; and there’s “no tasting menu or small plates, thank goodness!”. When it comes to wine, “they really know what they are doing” and offer “one of the most varied and high-quality wine lists around, with lots of classics, and plenty of new options to try”. “The regular presence of Bruce himself (more common since lockdown) is welcome” and it’s a “very slick operation”: “friendly, not too pretentious” and “seemingly effortlessly convivial”. The room itself is slightly “cramped” to some tastes, but is buoyed along by the “seductive buzz of contented diners”. “It’s still the one to beat – the standards never drop… if anything, it gets better!”

This “long-time favourite gastropub near Richmond Park” in East Sheen has been owned by TV chef Paul Merrett for more than 15 years, and serves “great food and wine”, including in the spacious rear conservatory and garden. “Never had a bad meal here”, agree regulars – many of whom meet up in the bar for a “pre-Twickenham lunch”.

“Sally has triumphed in maintaining stands and a smile across the decades” and the “super-civilised institution” she opened in 1984, south of Notting Hill Gate, has shown rare staying power. That “there is always a really warm welcome” from the “effective and nurturing” staff goes down well, as does the way she has “maintained excellence with the finest seasonal produce perfectly cooked” (inspired by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in California, her friend and mentor since the late 1970s). “Simple but elegant decor” and a strong wine list focused on North America complete a picture which still inspires practically zero criticism.

“Terrific food in a nice old pub” sums up the straightforward winning formula of this highly popular venture from chefs Mike Wall-Palmer and Dave Adams, who worked together at top chef Steve Drake’s former restaurant in the village. Their cooking is “totally reliable and reasonably priced”, with the set lunch in particular offering “exceptional value”.

In the underprovided area around Oval, it’s well worth discovering this “nice neighbourhood spot near the cricket ground”. Steak is a speciality (it’s a sibling to Clapham’s Knife, see also), but meat doesn’t over-dominate the wide menu, and results remain consistently well-rated. Top Tip – ‘secret’ outdoor garden out back.

Something of an unexpected find on the Hammersmith Road – part of the Victorian former premises of St Paul’s Boys School were converted into a hotel some years ago and incorporate this smart dining room looking onto a small park. A variety of relatively affordable menus – Sunday Lunch, Afternoon Tea, and, more recently, a steak and whisky pairing – make it a flexible venue, particularly suited to a family occasion.

2024 Review: A very appealing looking spot, in one of Chelsea’s more chichi little enclaves – this café bar is part of nearby boutique hotel, 100 Cadogan Gardens. It’s not the cheapest venue, and service can lag, but for a breakfast or light shopping lunch it’s praised (albeit in limited feedback) as “a good all-rounder”.

Tom Aikens’s “intimate townhouse restaurant in Belgravia” has a “pleasant location away from the busy streets” where you eat on two floors, with some of the seating perched counter-style and with other diners sat at tables. “The concept of the menu is that it is based on Tom’s upbringing” and the result of the multi-course offering is “truly world-class cuisine” with “amazing depth of flavour” all provided with “exceptional service”. There is a trade-off that was more evident in feedback this year, however: it’s “great… but very expensive!”