Aston Tirrold, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“A lovely setting on the river” (the stretch of the Thames commemorated in ‘Wind of the Willows’, and best admired from the terrace) elevates a visit to this former boathouse, last used for the ferry in 1967. Happily, the “charming modern interior still retains some of the character of this long-established venue”, despite a more pub-like refurb in recent years, and there was praise this year for some “tasty and filling” cuisine (and at a “very reasonable” price tag too).

2022 Review: “This superb gastropub” – an eighteenth-century inn “two minutes from the Thames and convenient for London day-trippers” – serves “interesting food with some high gastronomy”: “all produce is locally sourced, and bread made and butter churned in-house”. Husband-and-wife patrons Nick & Mary Galer (both ex-Fat Duck Group) “clearly care about what they do and look after their diners”. Ratings dropped a notch this year amid reports of “the odd off note” – possibly they “need a bit more practice after lockdown”.

There’s “an unashamed emphasis on pork” (as per the name) at this “excellent find in Wallingford”, co-run by the founders of local offy The Keep, and launched via crowdfunding; “the scotch eggs and doughnuts are justifiably lauded” and all part of the “comfort therapy” the venture provides (be it via bottomless brunches or a range of small plates). Locals “feel very lucky to have such a lovely restaurant nearby”, while out-of-towners scouting for a new home are “hoping we find one, as I want to come back soon!”.