Aughton, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“A regular stop when heading north” – this Lune Valley stalwart near the Cumbrian and Yorkshire borders is true to the Brunning & Price DNA: attractive surrounds (a coaching inn dating from the eighteenth century, featuring log fires and flagged stone floors); “very consistent” and wide-ranging pub food (pies, Sunday lunches and decent veggie options too); and “friendly and efficient staff”. Top Menu Tip – the “crispy beef salad is still amazing”.

2022 Review: This “delightful tea shop, delicatessen and tea merchants on the main route into Grange” is “every bit as good as Betty’s” – say fans of its “home-made breads, pastries and cakes to die for”. “Large windows give great views across the ornamental gardens”, and “there’s a real buzz from the coming and going of locals, visitors and efficient, knowledgeable staff”.

“Just the right balance of superb food and unrivalled service” maintains high ratings for Simon Rogan’s less formal venue in a beamed cottage just around the corner from L’Enclume, where many visitors also stay the night. The Tyre Men have felt it necessary to bless it with a star, but it’s a step-down ambition-wise (and price-wise) from its famous sibling – lunch is a three-course selection for £49 per person, and dinner six courses for £95 per person.

“I think the best meal I’ve ever eaten” – Simon Rogan’s converted blacksmith’s workshop in a beautiful village to the south of the Lakes nowadays carries the weight of anticipation brought about by the third Michelin star that it acquired in 2022, and on most accounts “the drive is well worth it” to sample such “ridiculously good” food that “lives up to all expectations”. At the heart of the experience is a fifteen-course tasting menu for £265 per person (at lunch there’s a shorter selection for £125 per person). It’s finely wrought cuisine, with an emphasis on ingredients from Simon’s ‘Our Farm’ project nearby, and “the intimate nooks and crannies to hide away in and the quiet efficiency of the unrushed service makes it a place where time freezes” (“add in a room for an overnight stay and you have the best romantic getaway”). Sommelier Jordan Sutton is “fantastic and the wine pairing really complements the meal beautifully”. Is there a catch? Perhaps. Although ratings are still enviably high, complaints about value are also steadily rising here. (“A real sense that I was paying over the odds for the three stars. For my partner and I to be offered a glass of Champagne on arrival to mark my 50th to then be charged a huge amount per glass was a low point.”)