Aylsham, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Interesting art” (from the likes of Tracey Emin, Lucian Freud and Damian Hirst) is par for the course at art dealer Ivor Braka’s foodie getaway – launched in 2011, and no stranger to ‘Top 50’ UK gastropub lists. The stately home sits on a 1,000-acre deer park, with ex-Hix alumni Stuart & Simone Tattersall overseeing a vigorous menu spanning the Gunton’s own venison plus seafood, mussels and crab caught in nearby Cromer. A few reports of “slightly complacent” service of late, but even cynics “could not fault the food and setting”.

2021 Review: “After nearly 30 years under the same ownership” owner James Sawrey-Cookson retired and this “well-loved Norwich institution” changed hands last year: bought by a number of business-minded regulars. Chef of three years’ standing, Iain McCarten is “well into his stride, but what makes this place so popular is the whole atmosphere (there is a real sense of belonging”). “Hopefully the new owners don’t ruin the formula” although change is certainly afoot, with a new outside terrace and adjoining brasserie section opening in autumn 2019.

“An unpretentious, well-run pub: long may it never change!” – “informal, laid-back but efficient staff”, “good gastropub food” and a “cosy ambience” make a meal here “a thoroughly relaxing and enjoyable experience”, with “the option for outside eating overlooking the salt marshes in better weather”.