Bankside Restaurant Guide

2024 Review: With its “great view over the river”, the sixth-floor restaurant in this converted power station opposite St Paul’s Cathedral is a “really rather splendid place for a decent set lunch”. The food is “better than expected, perhaps better than it needed to be” – “appropriately arty”, too, with dishes inspired by artists on display in the gallery. (Over at Tate Britain, “the Rex Whistler dining room is sorely missed and a real loss” – its closure brought about by a combination of Covid and dilemmas about the depiction of slavery in its Whistler murals, nowadays deemed ‘unequivocally… offensive’.)

“A wonderful location overlooking St Paul’s and the river” – complete with “fantastic view of the Thames” – creates a “gorgeous”, if unavoidably touristy, setting for this South Bank pub, which is incorporated into Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Locals support it too though: in particular it’s “a lovely spot for afternoon tea” and “even if the teas are Shakespeare-themed, they aren’t over-tacky”. The contemporary British food is also well-rated at other times.

This 15-strong London noodle chain (now with branches in Brighton, Birmingham and Bristol) is “a good stand-by” – perhaps it’s “not as good as some of its competitors”, but it is widely seen as “good value”: in particular “the lunch-time meal deal” is a winner.

2021 Review: “A firm favourite for breakfast and brunch in Southwark” – this café-style fixture a short stroll from Tate Modern serves “a great menu to suit all tastes”, and fans say it’s “unbeatable”.

Forget sourdough: the magic ingredient at this Neapolitan duo in Borough and St James’s is apparently pure Mediterranean seawater – whatever the formula, it results in notably tasty pizza, with a choice of Neapolitan and ‘Gourmet’ varieties (and there’s also a short selection of other main dishes, including pasta). “Service is very good”, too, and the ambience “enjoyable”.

Easily missed, “near the Millennium (wobbly) Bridge” directly opposite Tate Modern, Neleen Strauss’s “sparse” riverside venture is worth investigating. The focus is simple: “great steaks (from Yorkshire) with everything else – including passionate rugby support – from South Africa”. Star of the show is, some would say, the “Saffer wine list – a reasonably priced one, too”.

Swish rooftop Iberian seafood specialist on the 14th floor of a modern Southwark hotel. It remains solidly rated for its luxe seafood – including nine varieties of oyster, alongside lobster and caviar – with scores that stack up respectably against fashionable restaurants with a view. Pick carefully, and you could make an affordable meal here, but the more luxurious options are very punchily priced.

A particularly solid choice for brunch – this “buzzy” Kiwi-run chain (with seven branches) fits the bill well, with “interesting small plates” of pan-global fusion food and an emphasis on notably good coffee (which they roast in-house). On the downside, the food is often “passable and no more” and their “lively” interiors (Granary Square in particular) can become “hopelessly crowded”, giving rise to incidents of “slapdash service”. Still, they’re “fun” and “reasonably priced”. (See also Vardo).

2024 Review: Long-standing tapas bar in a tiny converted pub near Southwark tube that’s “great fun and like being in Spain” – tucked away in a backstreet, it is handily close to the South Bank’s arts venues, including Tate Modern, the Old Vic and the National Theatre.

2021 Review: With their “chilled ambience and laid-back vibe” this trio of cafés have championed Aussie-style day-time eating for more than a decade in London. “Good for breakfast, brunch and lunch”, they are “not too overpriced compared with competitors”, and the Shoreditch and London Bridge venues are open in the evening for drinks and dinner.

You walk past “chiller meat displays” as you enter Roberto Costa’s Italian group. Macellaio means ‘butcher’, and the focus is on quality steaks, particularly the Piemontese Fassona breed, but also including cuts from the UK (from Herefordshire) and with tomahawk and Halal options; all matched with an “extensive wine list”. “For a great and reasonable dinner (including pre-theatre) and excellent steaks” it does still have fans. But its support has waned in both quality and quantity in recent years, and the group has halved in size since the last edition, shedding branches in Bloomsbury, Borough and Clapham (all RIP) to focus on Theatreland/Soho, Exmouth Market and the South Kensington original. All of the (relatively few) reports say the food is still mostly good but increasingly there are caveats: “Hmmm, the steaks are getting pretty… not bad, but no longer as good value”. Top Menu Tip – the “dessert theatre of tiramisu created at the table”.

2021 Review: Gordon Ramsay’s “Italian-leaning” warehouse conversion in Southwark, with an indoor ‘olive grove’ complete with trees, pleases some with its “giant portions of great food” and “fantastic cocktails”. Far too many reporters this year, though, complain of a “sterile” aspect to its “industrial” decor, and dismiss the fare as mightily “uninspired”.

“This beautiful space by the river” – the stylish dining room of a South Bank hotel, designed by Tom Dixon – has “a wonderful view if you get a table by the window” and “plenty of space between the tables, so conversation is easy”. Standards in other respects, though, have been up-and-down over many years.

This “hip, buzzy under-arch venue with counter seating” and distinctive blue-and-white tiling, near Borough Market, showcases “really interesting” wines and tapas-style dishes from Portugal. Founder Max Graham, from the Churchill port family, also has a second branch in the City in Finsbury Avenue Square, although this inspires no feedback (and is not listed).

The cooking is awesome and “the bar is mega!” according to the many fans of this JKS outpost in the Bloomberg Arcade. Modelled on an Indian Army mess, “it’s always been a very masculine, ‘City boys’ type place (some evenings the male:female ratio is at gay-bar disparities!)”. The quality of the “inauthentic but deliciously tasty” cooking is undisputed, but there’s lively debate about what’s best on the menu: “the short rib curry is the stand-out here”; no, “the biryani in pie crust is the best Indian dish in town”.

“No gimmicks and great flavours” is the recipe for a “semi-religious experience” at this small group (which also has three delivery-only outlets): for its many fans, “still the gold standard by which all burgers in the UK should be judged”. “Gloriously juicy meat with just the right amount of extras” all “comes together in the most mouth-watering way”. You “don’t come for the experience” though: they are “very cramped when busy”, if “still somehow cool”. In August 2024 they opened a new site not far from London Bridge.

“A great wine list from all corners of the globe” has helped underpin the ongoing popularity of this modern wine bar chain, despite a year that saw it sold out of administration and the closure of its popular King’s Cross branch. Although this period inspired iffy marks and the odd report of “totally disorganised” service, the four remaining outlets still inspire tons of, albeit slightly lukewarm nominations as a handy option “for a simple meal”: “don’t expect any sort of culinary fireworks” from the “straightforward” dishes “but there are some very nice, reasonably priced wines” and the interiors are “definitely pleasant”. Top Menu Tips – “lovely cheese croquettes and steak ’n’ chips”.

These noodle bars are “great if you need a quick and satisfying lunch” – either in the original Soho branch, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, or its offshoots in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and Hackney. They specialise in udon noodles, which are fatter than ramen and served in a more refined and traditional Japanese dashi stock.

2024 Review: Soren Jessen’s “slick, Nordic cafe in the City of London” occupies part of the Bloomberg Arcade and contributes to the development’s renown for offering “good food in the dry desert of the Square Mile”. It majors in Danish smørrebrød (rye bread with toppings): “nice for a change”, but “you can rack up a fair bill eating these delicate one-bite-and-they-are-gone appetisers” (though “there there are decent main courses such as fish, schnitzel and venison fillet”). On the downside, results can end up seeming “not as Scandi and varied as expected” – “I prefer IKEA meatballs, even if they are not as prettily presented!”