Banstead, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Ties festooned from the ceiling is the signature look of this veteran St James’s location, which makes a civilised launch-pad for an evening in the West End. With help from the menu – well-rated in reports – offering light US-inspired bites (ribs, jambalaya prawns, mac ’n’ cheese).

“Always a delight to eat here” – Tom Aikens’s small townhouse restaurant in Belgravia continues to inspire nothing but very high ratings for its “delicate cooking and inventive flavour combinations” served over two small floors, either counter-style, or at the small number of tables in the “cosy if slightly cramped” space. “The counter experience is so close up and personal, and the storytelling approach to cooking so compelling, that it creates a beautifully intimate atmosphere”. The menu is heavily inspired by and presented through the lens of Tom’s upbringing: “will return to try a different season’s story”. The only negative review this year was from someone considering it overpriced, who still rated the food as “very good” (“OK, so I don’t like tasting menus: I still expect staff to converse instead of reciting the – very – long history of how such-and-such a dish was inspired and created”.)

“It’s more gastro than pub, but the ambience deliberately stops short of a full restaurant experience and so you can have great food in a more relaxed manner” at Mike Wall-Palmer & David Adams’s characterful old hostelry, which has been a feature of the high street since the sixteenth century. A feature highlighted for praise is the “exceptional value set lunch” (“delightful carpaccio of beef, sea bream in a delicious mussel sauce and a scrumptious dessert… top value!”). There’s also a simpler offering in the bar and courtyard.

Ten minutes’ walk south of Greenwich BR, this Georgian corner tavern is more gastro than pub, with a stylishly updated interior and a “beautiful garden”. Much of the menu – for example, steak, fish, chicken skewers – is prepared on the robata grill, and is “a cut above your usual pub grub”.

Star chef, Sally Abé was key to the ‘girl power’ formula of this traditionally decorated dining room in a five-star hotel near St James’s Park tube – named with the nickname of Emily Wilding Davison, a leading suffragette – which she relaunched four years ago. The move was a brave effort by the hotel to put its traditionally decorated (slightly stilted) dining room on London’s culinary map and to link it with both a forward-looking approach but also the traditional British cuisine that Sally is known for. But it’s all change as of April 2025 when Abé announced her departure (for the Bull at Charlbury). Given that she was so central to its PR and approach, it’s hard to work out its destiny now that she’s stepped down, hence we’ve left it un-rated.

“Good for business or a Sunday lunch” – this boutique hotel on the Hammersmith Road is converted from the Victorian former premises of St Paul’s boys’ school and its smart, small dining room overlooks the adjoining park. A range of menus encompasses breakfast, afternoon tea and Sunday lunch and there’s a brasserie-style menu served at other times. Top Menu Tip – “one of the largest selections of Malt and specialist Whiskies I have found”… there are about 600 available.

“Perfect for a romantic celebration” – this rather “grown-up restaurant” in a five-star property overlooking Kensington Gardens comes complete with dark wood panelling, leaded glass windows and candle-light and provides a comfortable and “very cosy” backdrop for a meal. Chef Daniel Putz’s modern European dishes are essentially traditional (Dover sole, Barnsley lamb chop) but are thoughtfully updated. Top Menu Tip – “excellent low-key afternoon tea”.

2024 Review: A “real favourite” of well-heeled foodies, this classy if relatively unsung Mayfair hotel dining room boasts in “William Drabble, the most underrated of chefs – and one of great longevity” after 15 years at the helm. There is an eight-course ‘Menu Gourmand’ (for £125), but also à la carte options (starting in the evening with a two-course meal for £82 – lunchtimes are cheaper).

“A great range of fish dishes cooked to perfection” is the type of “excellent seasonal British cooking” that’s done best at star Irish chef, Richard Corrigan’s Mayfair flagship, just off Park Lane (whose stated focus is on ‘all that is wild, from the land, air and sea’). The experience is helped by “welcoming and involved staff” and in particular, it’s “spot-on for smart business lunches”. That it can seem “very expensive” was a more common complaint this year, although “the lunchtime set menu makes it just possible for retired folk”.

A “very casual modern British” haunt that’s particularly worth discovering in the culinary wastelands around Oval: an easygoing, modern bistro that’s particularly nice in summer when the cute rear terrace comes into its own. The menu is diverse, but incorporates a strong selection of steaks (it’s a sibling to Clapham’s ‘Knife’, see also).

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“Lucky Chiswick!” – “You can’t go wrong with a meal at La Trompette in W4!” – which, like its south London stablemate Chez Bruce, is one of the most enduringly popular restaurants in our annual diners’ poll and likewise also one of the most consistent. True, the Covid years were more tricky than usual, but many reports agree they are “back to where they were pre- pandemic”. A “comfortable” space just off the high street, its atmosphere is that of a “neighbourhood restaurant” but a “very civilised” one at that. Greg Wellman’s cuisine is “expertly prepared” and “faultless every time”: “from the sourdough bread to begin to the warm soufflé that’s a favourite to finish, all from a seasonally changing menu which provides nice variety” and which “leaves you feeling well wined and dined at a good price”. Service is “always polite, friendly and professional” and has useful advice to give, including on the “well-priced wine list”. “I just wish it were a bit more central”, notes one fan… who visits it from Cheshire!! Top Tip – “now offering no corkage if you BYO on Sunday nights to add extra pleasure”.

“A superb destination full of generosity and honesty” – Bruce Poole & Nigel Platts-Martin’s “faultless”, “neighbourhood” restaurant, just across from Wandsworth Common, is voted London’s No. 1 favourite in our annual diners’ poll for an amazing 20th year. How do they do it? First off, consistency – a typical report will often start: “we’ve been eating here twice a year for about 20 years and it’s never been other than a brilliant go-to for a special meal”. Secondly, nothing about the enterprise is pretentious or showy: it’s “quietly refined but never pompous”. Chef Matt Christmas’s modern British cuisine is “unfailingly excellent” but impressively straightforward – “there’s nowhere for the chef to hide and he doesn’t need to”; impeccable ingredients are “cooked to perfection”, “every single thing on the plate has a taste, and nothing is just there for colour or decoration”. Thirdly, the service. Bruce is a “sympathic owner and he’s in the the room”, along with his staff who are “friendly but not overbearing and extremely well informed (if you’re a wine buff – there’s an extensive list – they’ll happily advise and discuss. But equally they won’t be snooty if you just want the ‘house red’”). Fourthly, the “plain (in a good way)” dining room, which is perfectly in keeping with the un-forced style of the proceedings. Its “lively buzz (as it’s practically always full)” can occasionally seem “noisy”, and for the odd thrill- seeker it “lacks excitement”. But if your taste veers towards “‘mature dinner party’ rather than ‘wild night out’” it feels for all the world like a “proper grown-up restaurant”. Fifth and finally, the final bill – prices are not give-away, but taken as a whole – with the generous little extras like parmesan biscuits to start, excellent breads and butter, a little truffle at the end – it’s “still astonishing value for money”.

“One can never tire of Gavin Rankin’s discreet, restrained and brasserie”, “quietly located” in a Mayfair mews (“an institution that lives with the legacy that the late Queen visited it twice”). “You can start your meal with cocktails in the bar (next to the restaurant)” and then move to the dining room for “classic’ Anglo/French cuisine” that’s “comfortingly familiar” and “superb in its simplicity” (the harsh might say “staid and unadventurous”); and “good value too”. “Service is excellent – one always has everything one needs but is otherwise left alone”. For an “understatedly elegant” business occasion – perfect! Top Menu Tip – “outstanding value for money from the table d’hote menu”.

Chic, “most enjoyable” all-day café-bar run in conjunction with nearby boutique hotel, 100 Cadogan Gardens, in a cute, quiet enclave off Sloane Street. You’re “warmly greeted by the staff”, who provide an assortment of menus from breakfast onwards of simple quality fare (steak, burgers, salad bowls, fish grills) “well prepared and presented”.

For a comfortable meal in an impressive space in Mayfair, this wood-panneled chamber has much to recommend it, and is one of the better-preserved traditional dining rooms (dating originally from the 1850s and made over in the 1930s). Chef Sofian Msterfi injects North African ideas from his Moroccan roots into some of the dishes on his five-course (for £95 per person) or seven-course (for £140 per person) menus. The odd reporter feels this is “too much concept” for their tastes, but for the most part it’s an approach that’s very well received.

An “unexpected find in a quiet location” – this “gorgeous olde worlde pub with delicious food” and big dining conservatory is to be discovered in a leafy suburban street near Richmond Park’s Sheen Gate; and is “a great all-rounder”, run by TV-chef owner Paul Merrett. Other features include six boutique bedrooms upstairs, and a large kid-friendly garden.

“A real journey of discovery” is to be had at Adam Handling’s renowned Covent Garden flagship, where fans of his eight-course – haute but unstuffy – theatrical experience for £199 per person say it’s “sheer culinary perfection from start to finish!”, complete with “bangin’ tastes, engaged staff and great fun for any occasion”. For many of its fans, it’s “a go-to for a special celebration (or any excuse we can make for a special celebration!)” as it “somehow keeps managing to exceed expectations with new twists on old favourites and new innovations both culinary and presentational”. On the flipside, though, there is a notably large band of more cautious sceptics, who either feel that “it’s trying too hard”, or who note that “while lovely, it is very costly”. (“Don’t get me wrong – there is nothing wrong with the food here per se, with some fantastic dishes such as the lobster wagyu. Where it falls down a bit is value-for-money compared to competitors, with the pricing pushing very much at the upper end of what I would expect from a Michelin one star, but the overall experience being more in the mid-point of that category”).

“Sally Clarke continues to oversee her Kensington oasis and ensures high standards are maintained” as she has since 1984 at this paragon of enduring quality, just south of Notting Hill Gate. Inspired originally by her time at Chez Panisse in California in the late 1970s, “the focus on quality ingredients pays off in the dishes and everything is deceptively simply prepared and tastes amazing”. “It’s not flash but all the better for that – not cheap but worth every penny”. “Remarkably, Sally is still working front of house every night ensuring guests feel welcomed and at home” and – especially for older romantics – “there is no music; tables are well spaced; the lighting is great; one can whisper sweet-nothings without the next table overhearing; and it slightly feels like one has taken one’s lover home to meet the family (and your mum happens to cook a good dinner). It’s a class act!”. Top Menu Tips – “all tastes are catered for and vegetables swapped round from the menu to accommodate likes and dislikes”. Highlights among starters include “super fresh crab”, “pasta with grated black truffle and an excellent white asparagus”; among mains, “superb Dover sole” and “fabulous deer, perfectly medium rare with superb accompaniments”; “excellent cheeseboard, then delicious comice pear sorbets with amazingly good pistachio wafers”.