Barbican, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2021 Review: A “perennial favourite local relaxed foodie joint”, this ex-pub turned “bistro-cum-cafe-cum-restaurant” goes from strength to strength as a showcase for the “inventive food” of chef-owner Dave Jenkins, whose dishes “always delight, with lovely little touches and innovations that make total sense once you’ve tasted them”. They serve “great breakfasts, good-value lunches”, and “the best Sunday roast in town”.

“Without a doubt this was well and away my best meal of the year!” – “Dan Cox’s delightful, new regenerative farm-to-fork project” opened in February 2023 and is destined for great things, inspiring rapturous early reports. “You can instantly tell that he owes a lot to his long tenure under Simon Rogan at L’Enclume and then Fera”. He took over this former sawmill and organic farm on the Devon/Cornwall border in 2018 and spent five years planning and planting and raising rare-breed livestock in order to open this 25-cover ultra-sustainable restaurant with an open kitchen which occupies an old barn on the farm. The result is a “a wonderfully sparse, yet cosy and warm place” whose cuisine inspires a full-on rave: “we had the 13-course tasting menu, which was innovative and totally delicious, with everything sourced from the farm or like-minded local producers with the menu dependent on availability. The matching wines were also excellent. Well worth a journey!” – “The Lion’s Mane steak was powerful and full of umami notes, so much so that even our diehard carnivore of a daughter enjoyed it. The pork belly and leg dish was exquisite. Hit all the right notes in this unstuffy dining experience where the chef serves your food. After only three months open it thoroughly deserves its Michelin Green Star and is destined to go far”. (In his August 2023 review, The Telegraph’s William Sitwell also pronounced himself a fan: “I can honestly say this was a collection of magnificent, original and quite breathtaking food”.)

Expanded over its 50 years in operation – now to 16 rooms – this converted mansion on the Devon/Cornwall border enjoys good views of the Tamar Valley from its dining room. Dinner is a three-course table d’hôte or you can opt for the (only somewhat more expensive) six-course tasting menu for £85 per person. It was well-rated all round this year.

John Hooker and wife Emma’s “lovely pub” en route to Cornwall was praised this year for some “really clever cooking without being fussy or complicated” (including “good venison from local stalkers”). Despite the “exciting things happening in the kitchen” of late, it has reassuringly “not lost its ‘pubbiness’”.

“On a summer’s day, there isn’t a better place to sip vino!” than this wine shop/deli, which has an excellent setting with views over Sutton Harbour. There’s a selection of generous (not inexpensive) sharing platters, cheeses, and nibbles. The best bets are the Honkytonk Creole Dishes (say spatchcock chicken with fries and slaw for £25).