Barnes, Italian Restaurant Guide

“Serious, and seriously delicious food, served in a simple space that helps to focus attention on what matters” has made Andreas Riva’s Barnes veteran a “staple of Italian food lovers”, oft-cited by top food writers like Nigella Lawson as their favourite destination. It’s boosted by “exceptionally long-serving, loyal staff” who provide regulars in particular with service they acclaim as “delightful, efficient, warm and friendly”. A typical account of a meal might run as follows: “Specials of puntarelle, gnocchi and suckling pig, and the calves’ liver and red onions from the menu, together with a dessert of tiramisu, were all faultless. Wines by the glass – a Pinot Bianco and a Tuscan Sangiovese – matched beautifully and were modestly priced”. As often is the case here though, there is a contrarian viewpoint and it gained ground this year: “We hadn’t been impressed with Riva when we had eaten there many years ago, but thought we’d try it again, after reading several very positive reviews. Our recent visit, however, confirmed our earlier verdict. The menu choice was uninspiring, service indifferent and the venue was run-down and in need of attention. Prices were high and the elderly man who seemed to be in charge ignored diners and sat at a table doing paperwork. We definitely won’t be returning!”