Batley, French Restaurant Guide

This “very Gallic” and “traditional basement bistro” in the city’s financial district is just the job for schmoozing clients over a boozy lunch. Founded by Robert Chamberlain and Andrew Carter in 1991, “nothing has changed for many years” – “we weren’t there for business, but judging by the loud conversations around us there were plenty of others who were”.

Handy for Leeds Playhouse, a “lovely French restaurant that‘s been there forever and understandably” – it provides much of what you’d want from a Gallic bistro recreated in a northern town: relaxed, affordable (it has long been of note for its early-bird deals), unpretentious, and with cosy décor that seems even cosier by the light of flickering candles.