Belgravia, Italian Restaurant Guide

“The fish never disappoints” at this “true neighbourhood restaurant” from Mauro Sanna’s smart Sardinian group – although it is “a bit on the expensive side”, as might be expected from the Belgravia location. Top Tip – “book a table on the small elevated section at the back, where the acoustics are better: the late Dame Maggie Smith always sat there”.

“Upmarket Italian” – associated with a lifestyle brand originally specialising in yachtie apparel, these luxurious all-day cafés aim to recreate the retro glamour of 1950s Italy, complete with deep blue awnings, wood panelled walls and white-jacketed staff. At their best they are a “lovely dining experience”, but – especially given the aspirational pricing – they sometimes fall short of their aims with an offering that can seem “mass and carelessly produced”.

A well-heeled Belgravia crowd enjoys this “classic Sardinian, which continues to provide an excellent balance of food, service and ambience” under the watchful eye of founder Mauro Sanna, who has managed to “innovate while maintaining high standards” for more than 35 years. (“On a recent visit to London, I had to discover if the magic is still there – and it is!”). Top Menu Tip – “spicy Sardinian octopus with toasted crostini”.

“Consistently good Sardinian food”, a smart line-up of pizza and “Sardinian and other non-mainstream Italian wines that are always a treat” are in store at Mauro Sanna’s Belgravia spot, whose monochrome modernist interior design is undoubtedly stylish but makes for an ambience some find “perhaps a little sterile”.

2022 Review: “Fairly modern in style”, this Belgravia Italian of over 20 years’ standing has a “pleasant” ambience and typically provides a civilised safe haven within striking distance of Victoria. We have rated it on the basis of its consistent pre-pandemic performance and the assumption that it will reopen: as we go to press in September 2021, it remains ‘temporarily closed’.

“Love this place” – a “lovely, long-established high-end Italian” in Belgravia that still seems fresh after 30 years and remains “perfect for a special occasion”. If it no longer has the cachet of its early years under founding chef Giorgio Locatelli, at least that means it’s “easy to get a table” these days: the interior is tasteful, service professional and the cooking of a very high quality.

Modelled on Continental cafés, this duo occupy a Victoria hotel and the ground floor of the art’otel by Battersea Power Station. Only the former gets much in the way of nominations, particularly as a good-value destination with kids in tow. There’s a variety of salads, pasta and soups with simple grills and bakes (including to share) the main event. Top Menu Tip – “the fried zucchini is tops”.

“Theo and his passion for the joys of simple Italian cooking are admirable” and help inject considerable brio into his well-established HQ: a large chamber off the foyer of a big, datedly glamorous five-star on Hyde Park Corner. “He is usually in the kitchen unlike some celebrity chefs, and his enthusiasm for wonderful ingredients shines through” in “skilfully prepared” dishes “with great depth of flavour” (“He also happens to be a very likeable chef who is happy to talk to you after service”). “Judging by their happy demeanour, Theo’s staff also seem to be very happy working here” and “if you want to spend a couple of hours being treated like royalty” this is not a bad place to start. The “cool and modern” room benefits from “lots of space and big tables” (endearing it to business diners) but “being windowless is best at night”; and has been accused of being “a bit soulless”. But they continue to tweak the decor and layout here and “a definite improvement” was noted in some reports (and the ratings) this year. Overall the place attracts little but supportive feedback for its large fan club for whom it’s an overall “favourite”. Top Tip – “if you go for one of the monthly changing regional menus with matching wines, or Sunday lunch, it’s excellent value for money too for a top-class London restaurant”.

Few restaurants boast a foodie heritage dating back to the twelfth century, but that’s the claim at this Belgravia outpost of the Antinori family empire: a clan that’s been in the Tuscan wine trade for 26 generations (albeit only running restaurants since 1957 with their first in a Florentine palazzo). All feedback agrees this is a “lovely, elegant Italian in Knightsbridge with excellent preparation of ingredients to a high standard”, “service that’s 10/10” and “a good atmosphere” created by the tastefully appointed room. Just one snag: “All is wonderful… until you get the bill!”

“Very handy for Victoria station” and directly opposite the Apollo Theatre – “this small Italian restaurant serves up good, hearty, authentic grub at a reasonable price” and is “convenient for a quickish meal”. (“We asked them to bring us what they would recommend: the lasagna was the best I’ve tasted for many years, the pizza was good and the bruschetta were absolutely delicious – will return!”).