Bermondsey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: With a “taster menu that’s second to none”, Robin and Sarah Gill’s crack kitchen team have settled in well to their new home in a Bermondsey ‘aparthotel’. They moved over from Clapham’s The Dairy, which did not survive the pandemic, but a taste of the latter’s “imaginative, skillful small-plate cooking” using carefully sourced seasonal ingredients is still available here.

“Restrained and consistently great”, this Bermondsey canteen “showcasing small plates of high-quality seasonal ingredients” has become an institution under chef Steve Williams over the past dozen years, drawing the foodie crowd to a railway arch behind London Bridge, where it shares space with a biodynamic wine warehouse (hence the interesting wine list). There are no bookings, and the day’s chalkboard menu can be found on Instagram. Top Tip – “order everything on the short menu and some wine you know nothing about”.

One of the venues that put Bermondsey on the culinary map when it opened 24 years ago, this green-tiled gastropub is still “well worth a visit” – “the staff know their food and you can watch the chefs cook while you await your meal”. Fresh fish from Cornwall is a particularly strong suit.