Birdlip, Indian Restaurant Guide

“The Keralan cooking is always good and the service is lovely” at this popular spot from Michael Raphel (owner of Prithvi and Holee Cow), whose chef grandfather came to Britain from South India 50 years ago. “At lunchtime the thalis are a delight and exceptional value”. There’s now a spinoff branch in Oxford.

Owned by the same people who run Muse Brasserie in the town, and on the former site of Spice Lodge, which graced the area for 15 years – this “upmarket” Indian fine-diner has successfully emerged as one of the area’s top subcontinental choices. Chef Anuj Thakur draws inspiration from dishes across India in his progressive cooking, which takes in à la carte, set options and five- or seven-course tasting menus.