Bradford Restaurant Guide

“This beautifully situated Cornish pub” off the Padstow tourist trail has a pleasant location in a fifteenth-century stone building replete with a garden overlooking the local church; solid marks if little feedback this year for its open-fire cooking, and especially “good-value set lunches”.

2023 Review: “A quirky hotel and restaurant serving excellent local fish” – this whitewashed, seventeenth-century hotel in a coastal bay is “always outstanding”. Chef James Lean (appointed in 2015) oversees a menu that’s naturally fish-focused. “Friendly service and great Cornish ales” complete the picture.

2021 Review: “At last a decent… well, actually quite a bit more than decent, Thai restaurant in North Cornwall!” – this “pretty tightly packed” café “lives up to its name, but this just adds to the fun” and its spicy scoff comes highly recommended.

“Against a backdrop of wild sea views we enjoyed small plate after small plate of stunning seafood, each one different” – Nathan Outlaw’s harbourside HQ inspired a dazzling level of satisfaction this year, with all of the numerous reports we received on it acclaiming it as an “outstanding” performer and very arguably “the best seafood and fish restaurant in the UK”. “You know everything is fresh and sourced locally and this shines through with everything they serve” in dish after “fabulously creative” dish, “beautifully presented on magnificent ceramics”. Its “impeccable but super-friendly Cornish service tops off” the “exceptional” standards.

“So small… how do they produce such great food from that tiny kitchen? Incredible!” – Nathan Outlaw’s “tiny, so quite cosy” No 2. venue sits on the quayside of this picturesque fishing village and is “just the best place” on account of food that’s “beautifully prepared and full of flavour”: “a wonderful combination of tapas-style eating and Michelin-starred cooking”.

2023 Review: “A small and intimate restaurant” – opposite an old church in Cornwall’s antiques capital – Graham Cuthbertson’s wood-panelled spot “serves great modern European and local dishes and the dining room is really comfortable”. “I went there with all my family and they were really accommodating with young children”.

“Gorgeous and remote”, this “inviting farm-to-fork restaurant” from well-known big-city chefs April Bloomfield (New York’s Spotted Pig) and Tom Adams (London’s Pitt Cue) goes “super-local and super-rustic with their menu – and you can’t help loving the wonderful converted stone barn dining room and attentive service”. Some find it “a marmite experience”: “the dishes are so few and so stripped-back that a nagging voice kept asking ‘is this it?’, even while the quality of cooking was superb”. But a large majority reckon it’s “well worth the journey”, as you “come away having fallen in love with the place”. Its influence stretches far: Coombeshead bread crops up regularly on smart menus in London.

Limited but still all-round enthusiastic feedback this year for Fred & Donna Beedles’s low-key operation, in a parade of shops away from the harbour. The menu is a two-course or three-course à la carte, whose seeming straightforwardness belies the skill of the cuisine.

The dining room at this smart century-old hotel has long been one of Cornwall’s prime culinary destinations, but the volume and tenor of feedback was more muted this year, so we’ve left it un-rated for the time being. There’s a choice of tasting menus in six or nine courses, and less of a focus on seafood than in the Nathan Outlaw era of a few years back. Karrek is apparently Cornish for Rock.

2021 Review: Still a “lovely, relaxing” location, with views across the Camel estuary, but feedback at this hotel dining room has become very mixed since the departure of chef James Nathan and his illustrious predecessor, Nathan Outlaw (and the ownership of the hotel itself changed in January 2019, which “may not have helped”). Whatever the cause, while it does still have some fans, some regulars feel it’s “just not in the same class” as it was formerly.

2022 Review: “Well worth a visit if in the Padstein area” when you're in the market for “great fish ’n’ chips”; “other Rick Stein eateries are available but this one has views over the estuary” – although they come with the caveat that your reveries “can be interrupted by tourists peering through the window to see what is on your plate!”

“Continues to impress after 25 years or more since our first visit” – the Stein family’s harbourside HQ continues to deliver the goods for the very many people who report on it in our annual diners’ poll. Opened in 1975, it is nowadays run primarily by Rick’s ex-wife Jill and her sons, and achieves the hard task of living up to the world fame of TV chef Rick (who nowadays spends a good chunk of his year living down under in Aus’). If you were to quibble, you would say the food is “lovely but not brilliant” or that it’s “not cheap by any means”, but to an impressive extent serious disappointments are completely absent in feedback this year: “you get the excellent seafood that you would expect with a good mix mix of interesting dishes alongside more plainly cooked options that allow you to fully appreciate the quality of the fish”. “Well worth the trip to Cornwall: the freshest seafood served with care and love!”

Paul Ainsworth’s casual spot is a “surprising crowd-pleaser”, turning out “perfect arancini”, “brilliant salty house fries” and “excellent pizza with blistered crust” (“other dishes are available, but I’ve never got past the pizza”). While the odd skeptic who hasn’t visited since its 2020 bistro relaunch rues the disappearance of the “formerly excellent pasta dishes”, the vast majority love the “amazing” small-plates menu and, for dessert, “the brown butter soft-serve ice cream with your own toppings to add is SO Paul Ainsworth – fun!”.

One of the lesser-known venues in the local Stein empire, set in an old stone building in the heart of Padstow, this low key bistro serves “excellent” and “reliable meals that never disappoint” – “we usually enjoy fish”. Importantly for some visitors, there’s “a small indoor dog-friendly space”.

Rich & Katie Toogood’s Cornish offshoot – a tiny spot near the harbour – generates much less feedback than their Highbury Corner original in London, but the ratings for its small plates of local seafood remain high. They also run a seasonal pop-up called Barnaby’s on similar lines, at Trevibban Mill Vineyard a short drive from Padstow.

“Out of this world!!” – “Paul Ainsworth’s flagship restaurant goes from strength to strength” and few restaurants in the UK achieve such a high level of esteem in our annual diners’ poll. “A culinary haven in the middle of, and yet a world apart from, the tourist crowds of Padstow”: it certainly eclipses its local rivals nowadays, with Nathan Outlaw a few miles down the coast its most serious nearby culinary competition. Set in a bijou Georgian townhouse, “the open kitchen shows off the enthusiastic team and it’s a case of selfies all round with the chefs after the meal”. “No, it isn’t cheap, but we found ourselves wondering how the team managed to set such high standards for the money”. “Special mention go to the dessert… and we don’t usually like desserts!” “All around an amazing gastronomic experience”!

This casual venue – one of five outlets the TV chef and his family run in their adopted home town – is “not your typical café”: “prices are reasonable and the dishes spot-on”. The all-day menu runs from breakfast staples through to a lively mix of bistro and Asian dishes alongside seafood and steak sarnies.

2021 Review: “Windows overlooking the vineyard” afford views onto this peacefully located spot – run by Andy Appleton (a graduate of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall) although the “huge barn” it occupies can feel a tad “quiet” at less busy times. Numerous “excellent” meals are reported last year from its Med-slanted modern British menu.