Callington, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Culinary innovation intertwines seamlessly with environmental stewardship, plus with unparalleled service and flavour” at Dan Cox’s February 2023 newcomer: part of an 120-acre farm with bakery and restaurant that “embraces traditional preservation techniques and locally sourced ingredients” with “a dedication to low-intervention, regenerative farming not only eschewing artificial fertilisers and pesticides but also reintroducing heritage crops, long forgotten by commercial channels”. All reports on it are outstanding, including numerous best meals of the year, and the upshot is “a lovely ethos and amazing quality” in the 25-cover restaurant, where the main offering is a nine-course tasting menu for £105 per person. Converts say: “It stands as a beacon of excellence, inspiring others to follow suit in preserving and enhancing the very environment that nurtures their creations”. Top Menu Tip – “Venison sourced from the local estate fulfils a dual purpose, ensuring habitat preservation while providing exquisite flavours on the plate. Similarly, matured sheep, aged six years, grace the menu, their meat meticulously dry-aged on-site in a DIY ageing room. Even the bones, once depleted of flavour, find new life as part of the crockery glaze”.

“This outstanding hotel overlooking the Tamar Valley on the border of Devon and Cornwall is a joy and the restaurant is one of its selling points” – another being the country pile’s “magnificent views”. One reporter who last visited in its heyday (in the 1980s) found it a little more average these days, but other diners praise its “well presented and tasty cooking” at “fair prices”.

This “romantic” hotel (owned by Olga Polizzi) occupies a “stunning location overlooking the Tamar Valley”. A diner recommending it for a date says its “roaring fires” and “old-school country-house atmosphere” help to “make up for any lack of quality in the rather traditional menu”. But that’s the only hint of criticism and all reports on its cooking were fundamentally upbeat this year. “Start with drinks on the terrace gazing at the dazzling views and then enjoy the three-course à la carte menu in the cosy, wood-panelled dining room at sunset”.

A couple of miles from the entrance to Dartmoor National Park, John & Emma Hooker’s attractive coaching inn is no stranger to awards lists, currently ranking at number two on Estrella Damm’s Top 50 Gastropubs list. You’re “always guaranteed an absolute corker of a meal” (British, unpretentious, but “lavished with care”), and a “fab atmosphere” too – no wonder reporters just “love it here”.

“Seasonal menus with delicious locally grown and reared ingredients at a fantastic setting which makes every visit a joy” – a formula that’s won foodie acclaim for this beautifully located ‘guesthouse, bakery and working farm’, where a meal (booking in advance is essential) is eaten in a very attractive converted barn. PR-wise, it has helped that owners April Bloomfield and Tom Adams had well-publicised gigs at restaurants in NYC and London before opening here.

2022 Review: “Good all round” – the consistent ratings at this famous sporting hotel on the edge of Dartmoor have not been ruffled by its 2020 sale by the Fox-Edwards family that owned and ran it for 60 years to new custodians and former guests Simon Village & Arabella Monro. The 300-year-old former coaching inn has 20 miles of private riverbank and a fly-fishing school established in the 1930, and also caters for game shooting and deer-stalking parties. Meals are served in the dining room and bar, and there is a new deli providing picnic hampers.

2021 Review: A “perennial favourite local relaxed foodie joint”, this ex-pub turned “bistro-cum-cafe-cum-restaurant” goes from strength to strength as a showcase for the “inventive food” of chef-owner Dave Jenkins, whose dishes “always delight, with lovely little touches and innovations that make total sense once you’ve tasted them”. They serve “great breakfasts, good-value lunches”, and “the best Sunday roast in town”.

“A wine bar with amazing character and great food” – Zoe Brodie & Fitz Spencer’s wine shop/deli overlooking Sutton Harbour offers some “fantastic small plates and sharing boards” – including ‘Fitzy’s Fat Boy Board’, which comprises pretty well the whole menu for £130.

2023 Review: Down by the quayside, this cute pub is tipped for “fish that’s obviously as fresh as you can get, and an excellent seafood platter” from amongst its other more typically pub grub offerings.