Cambridge Heath, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: “No fuss, not a lot of choice but solid food and good-value wine list” – that’s the deal at this 30-cover, bistro-esque venue, in a light-filled room on the first floor of Bethnal Green’s Town Hall Hotel.

“Exquisite…”, “Superbly inventive…” – few restaurants attract such consistently superlative feedback and ratings as Rafael Cagali’s “worthy successor to Viajante and The Typing Room” in Bethnal Green’s former town hall. Influenced by his Brazilian heritage, the dishes are “fantastic and unique” with “superb ingredients and precise execution” running through the entire, three-hour tasting menu (which is £245 per person; £180 per person at lunch). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff and the lovely space combine to create an exceptional culinary experience”. The only gripe is the obvious one – it’s mightily pricey. On practically all accounts, though, it’s “worth it” and “seems to get better every time”.

2021 Review: “This crisp, clean, chic warehouse” with “big industrial windows” in Cambridge Heath is, say fans, the “perfect, perfect, perfect spot for a lovely weekend brunch” or a “lush lunch with oysters and Champagne”. A hipster haven for 15 years, it still rates well for its “delicious food” and an atmosphere boosted by live music.

“A real event, with very complex and often-experimental food” – Gabriel & Patricia Waterhouse’s “temple of high cuisine” started out in his flat and, since 2021, has occupied this Scandi-esque, high-ceilinged, light-filled space near Regent’s Canal. Bookings are available for 1-6 diners and much of the seating is at communal tables, to which the ‘Long Form Menu’ at £155 per person is served at peak times (with cheaper options at quieter times). “There’s practically no choice on wine: either you have the wines provided or you have the non-alcoholic versions (same price)”. All reports agree this is “amazing” cooking – “you might not love it all, but you will certainly find it interesting!” – and there’s a general feeling that it is also “very good value for a great gastronomic experience”. As to the overall set-up, while the odd report says the seating is “a bit rag tag”, most say “don’t be put off by the supperclub set-up or shared tables”.

2022 Review: The wild and wacky French chain opened this eclectically designed 194-room hotel in late 2019, complete with clashing fabrics, retro gaming machines, füsball and karaoke rooms. The loungy restaurant offers an easy-grazing selection of dishes to suit the tastes of globe-trotting hipsters: initial feedback suggests it's better than you might expect (given all the competing attractions).

“Slightly off the beaten track but worth the trek” – Max Rocha’s “joyous” if “minimalist” Hackney canalside spot is “a fantastic venue, and a slightly quirky one given the charming but industrial view”. It inspires nothing but upbeat feedback for “French bistro food (e.g. Onglet & Chips) cooked to perfection”; and it does a “very good breakfast” too. “Busy, but they don’t hurry you”.

2024 Review: This “cool hangar of a restaurant in Hackney” (part of the design-conscious Barworks group) sits in a repurposed and eclectically decorated 1960s office block and also incorporates a coffee shop, deli, barber and tattoo parlour. “Recommended for large groups – the food is very good for the price” and includes a range of global favourites plus sourdough pizza, to be eaten in the spacious ‘Open Kitchen’ or the cosier ‘Dining Room’.

“Brilliant combination of flavours” – from a menu of modern European small plates from chef Michael Robins – twinned with “interesting low-intervention wine from superstar sommelier and co-owner Honey Spencer” (who contributes to “some of the best service in town”), have won instant acclaim for this “lovely, relaxed Scandi-vibes” newcomer near Hackney’s hip Broadway Market. Press critics have raved and reports in our annual diners’ poll likewise view it as an “all-round knockout”: “a place to visit regularly” if you live out East, and if not “a bit out-of-the-way, but worth the trip!”.