Charing Cross, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Brasserie food has been jazzed up to fit into the style of the Corinthia” by TV-star Tom Kerridge, and it‘s an approach that has proved enduring at this cavernous and moodily decorated bar/restaurant on Northumberland Avenue, which he runs in partnership with the adjoining, deluxe five-star hotel. Even those who say the cooking is “well done”, however, say it’s “not a choice for the budget-conscious” and an increasing number of reporters experience “rushed service” and feel it’s a case of “a lot of hype for ordinary food at escalated prices”.

“The fine rooftop setting” with “charming views over to Trafalgar Square” (and Big Ben off in the distance) help lend a “special” sense of occasion to this well-known destination that can otherwise seem a tad “Spartan” and “echoey”. “After the National Portrait Gallery’s stunning makeover, it reopened”, overseen by Richard Corrigan in July 2023. Chef Corrigan’s involvement keeps the menu focused on the British Isles and “though the food isn’t wildly ambitious, you can taste everything: it’s a masterclass in the clarity of its flavours”. At least, that’s what its biggest fans think – a number of sceptics say it’s “not cheap” and “nothing memorable, but pleasant nonetheless”. Top Menu Tips – “Oysters, Sea bass in hollandaise with greens and the creamiest mash imaginable; finally, Chocolate fondant plated prettily with raspberries and teeny madeleines. Yom!”

Quirkiness in spades is the particular appeal of this Dickensian watering hole – London’s oldest wine bar, whose best tables are in a superbly ancient candle-lit cellar which originally housed wine shipped to its front door by barges on the Thames. But in summer its outside comes into its own, boasting as it does a huge terrace adjoining leafy Victoria Embankment Gardens. “It has a very good wine list” – while the cold food is somewhat incidental: “a simple menu of quality ingredients” majoring in cold cuts and cheeses. Fun fact: it’s owned by entrepreneur Simon Gordon (the place was already called ‘Gordon’s’ when he bought it), who owns the increasingly ubiquitous Facewatch anti-shoplifting software, which was originally developed to stop thefts at the bar.

2021 Review: In the heart of the West End, this decidedly glam yearling scored better in our survey than the mixed rep it received in press reviews. The first UK outpost of a 30-strong international chain hailing from India and the Gulf, its repertoire of tapas-y offerings are very much of the funky, evolved school of Indian cuisine, and reporters salivate over “an amazing choice of inventive dishes” that are “far better than you would expect” in this touristy locale.

“Stylish, friendly and with inspired cooking” – that’s the most favourable take on Anthony Demetre’s rather grand hotel dining room off Trafalgar Square, with its parquet floor and banquettes running down each wall. (It’s not to be confused with the ‘Wild Honey’ he ran in Mayfair for many years). The cooking is modern British in style and even more reserved reports acknowledge it’s “perfectly sound”. It’s also to be found in an area where value is thin on the ground: “in fairness, where else are you going to get such a good meal at this price in SW1 for goodness sake?”

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

“Helping reclaim the West End with proper food!” – Jack Croft, Will Murray & James Robson’s four-year-old venture progressed via pop-ups (including a year on Heddon Street) to occupy this big site with an open kitchen at the south of the Haymarket. “It’s a lovely, buzzing environment” in which to enjoy some “beautiful” modern British food: a mix of bold small plates and larger dishes with a focus on sustainability. “They’ve hit on a winning formula for breakfast” too. Top Menu Tip – “Braised Dairy Ribs are massive chunks of love and the crab with ponzu snapped crackled and popped as much as anything ever eaten”.

Irish Wexford Tomahawk… Hereford Fillet Chateaubriand… Argentinian Ribeye… USDA prime fillet – the high quality of the steaks are a point of pride for Simon Thomas who owns London’s biggest and busiest casino, where the restaurant occupies an interesting space converted from the old circle of the former Hippodrome Theatre. NB under 25s must have ID. Top Tip – superb pre-theatre deal at £24 for two courses.

“The go-to place to celebrate a special anniversary” – this “enchanting” Covent Garden haunt is “magical for a special occasion or simply a treat”; and is yet again voted Londoner’s No. 1 choice for a hot date in our annual diners’ poll. If possible, try to book a table in the “beautiful flower-filled conservatory”, where there’s an opening ceiling in summer and a log-fire in winter: “upstairs, the cosy and intimate dining rooms have a whiff of that atmosphere (e.g. similar white flowers across the ceiling) but are perhaps for more mature relationships!”. While not its USP, its French cuisine is by no means incidental – “beautifully presented and bursting with flavour”; but it is upstaged by the wine list, which is “a rival to ‘War and Peace’ in length”. Service that’s “extremely helpful and very welcoming” caps off an impressive all-round performance. Top Tip – “the weekday set lunch is astonishingly good value for such cooking, particularly as it also offers a small carafe of well chosen wine for a pretty modest supplement”.

This “super-cosy”, “chic and friendly restaurant is very welcome” in Covent Garden, “an area of chains and tourist traps” – with a “simple menu” of ‘elevated comfort food’, it’s “hard to beat for an early pre-theatre meal”. Named after a mid-Victorian courtesan who learned her trade nearby (although she made the big time in Paris), it is the younger sibling to Kitty Fisher’s (see also).

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

“A really special experience for serious foodies” – Layo & Zoë Paskin’s (also of Barbary and Palomar fame) intimate 12-seater is part of a period Chinatown pub, where they have created different venues on each level. Here in the former beer cellar, “the only option is the kitchen counter, so you are right in on the action” and the creation of “superbly executed cuisine” from a small team, which is now headed by Seamus Sam, former head chef at Tom Aiken’s Muse, whose August 2024 arrival post-dated our diners’ poll. Feedback volume and ratings have slipped marginally since Luke Selby left for Le Manoir at the end of 2022. The most critical report? “A perfectly competent meal, served in an appropriately reverential atmosphere, albeit a cramped and uncomfortable setting (but then places of worship often are) by suitably devout believers and not cheap”. But perhaps there will now be an uptick under the new chef? Top Tip – a variety of drink pairings range from ‘Firm Favourites’ to ‘No & Low’ (a mixture of alcohol-free and low ABV wines).

Three years on from a relaunch under its original name by Gordon Ramsay (it was formerly Kaspar’s), this elegant chamber with Thames views from the window tables has yet to regain the lustre it enjoyed before the hotel relaunched in the noughties. It’s not devoid of fans, but too often its cooking (of mainly fish and seafood) is critiqued for being “overpriced (and in some cases overcooked or over-sauced)”. Sceptics say Big Sweary’s name above the door is a saving grace – “if it wasn’t a Ramsay restaurant they’d struggle”. Top Tip – a good choice for a posh brek.

“The magic has gone” for many critics of this Theatreland icon whose ‘chainification’ under Richard Caring (who put the Ivy group he created up for sale for £1bn in January 2024) has reduced this original site to “living on its past celebrity status”: “everything is slightly better than at the café and brasserie spin-offs found in humdrum regional shopping centres and other backwaters… but not much”. It’s certainly “a lot easier to book than it used to be” – the A-listers are long gone and “the clientele seems less highbrow, with more sportswear and baseball caps”. But – to be fair – its ratings are middling, not terrible; and many diners feel that “while not as special as it once was, we still enjoy it”. Though more “corporate” in atmosphere, it still has a “beautiful interior”; service is “a little bit patchy” at times, but mostly gets it right; and the menu of “British classics with a smattering of Continental and Asian dishes” – never the prime attraction – is “acceptable”. Top Tip – “Can’t go wrong for a business lunch” that’s “reliable if nothing special”.

“Hidden away in Soho”, this surprisingly “calm” hotel restaurant in a quiet courtyard just minutes from Piccadilly Circus is “a great place to take a visitor” to escape the hustle of the surrounding streets. “Efficient service” and a “high-ceilinged dining room” make it a decent option for a working lunch, pre-theatre dining or post-work drinks, although foodwise it’s a question of “pleasant comfort food”. Top Tip – recommended for afternoon tea.

Despite its cosy and historic charm, it’s tempting to omit this cosy Soho landmark which dates from 1867. It once was a major West End destination, and still has a gorgeous Champagne bar, but Soho House (owners since 2016) seem to have been mostly interested in converting its upstairs event spaces into 33 bedrooms, leaving the downstairs dining room run to be run in partnership with a North London pub (The Clarence Tavern x Kettner’s): “the food is average but it has a nice setting”.

“Tiny, but perfect in every other way” – “you couldn’t ask for better bistro food” than that produced by Neil Borthwick (Angela Hartnett’s husband) at this quirky dining room, where “simple dishes are realised with flair” and with “big, big flavours”. “Downstairs is a throwback to Soho boozers of yesteryear, you head upstairs to eat” – the room where General de Gaulle composed some of his speeches during WWII. “With six or seven small tables, it’s a rustic and cosy room, complete with very friendly and entertaining service, a humble and charming chef, and a feel of spit-and-sawdust, it’s the perfect spot for a cosy Soho supper”. Top Menu Tip – “the crisp bacon jowl will live long in the memory… and even longer on the hips!”

This “big, buzzy faux-Parisian brasserie” in the heart of Covent Garden certainly looks the part, but it “can get very busy” and “extremely noisy” as a result. It provides “lots of classic French cuisine”, but with very mixed results: fans say it’s “executed pretty well” but reviews overall are often jaundiced – for example: “dull food, impossible to chat… really bad experience and a ridiculous bill”.

“Wine is the star attraction in this luxurious hidden basement in Soho”, with a “lengthy, well-thought-out list” from master sommeliers Gearoid Devaney & Xavier Rousset (who founded it as Trade, a club for industry insiders). “The light bites are not to be ignored”, which “make this one of the better options for quiet drinks in the centre of town” – and late opening is another feature.