Charlbury, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

Smartly renovated with a ‘no foam’ menu of elevated pub grub to match, this honey-coloured boozer in an idyllic Cotswold village has “benefited from the ‘Country Creatures’ treatment” (now known as Lionhearth) under the co-ownership of locally based billionaire property developer Sir Tony Gallagher, lynchpin of the Chipping Norton set. These days, “the main problem is getting a table”.

“In an idyllic setting in the village of Binsey, very close to Oxford but along a rural lane, and with a lovely setting by the Thames” surrounded by Port Meadow, this cosy and popular pub “offers indoor dining by the fire in the winter, plus a spacious and airy conservatory with views of the garden; and tables on the terrace outside, or pub benches on the grass, with an outdoor bar”. It serves “a good variety of dishes at reasonable prices, plus daily specials”.

No reports as yet on this modern retread of an ancient village boozer in the Oxfordshire countryside. It’s a new showcase for the ‘elevated gastro-pub cooking’ of chef Nathan Richardson, who took over the property from former tenants of 15 years’ standing and who previously worked at Mayfair’s acclaimed Guinea Grill. You can eat in the bar (80 covers) or the restaurant (40 covers).