Chertsey, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This independently owned and run pub just off the Thames Path serves “first-class, chef-quality cooking at chain-pub prices, with a great menu for all occasions” – “you don’t find many pub-restaurants full on a Tuesday lunchtime, but this one is for good reason”. “They even make gravies from scratch for each Sunday roast and their own desserts!”

“Some outstanding food and clever twists in the tasting menu” inspired high ratings and enthusiasm levels this year in the “really special” and “intimate” dining room (just seven tables) of this stately pile, complete with Tudor fireplace and tapestries, where chef Alex Payne’s menus accounted for some reporters’ best meals of the year. Some reports include quibbles, but even a diner who was at the only occupied table at the time said “what a pleasant meal and what charming staff. Not expensive by today’s standards and definitely worth the detour”.

2021 Review: FKA ‘The Manor at Foxhills’: this “beautiful” dining room of a top golf course – set in an impressive Victorian manor house – “has been refurbished, with no carpets or window furnishings so it’s noisier than it used to be”. Too little feedback as yet from which to rate this new, more modern guise, but prices are not punishing and there is a menu for ‘Young Adults’. A traditional afternoon tea in the adjoining plush lounge is still an option.

2024 Review: Ex-Core chef Steven Ellis & pastry-chef wife Ami’s “temple-of-gastronomy-wolf in a comfy-pub-sheep’s clothing” launched two years back and it has a particular focus on local game. The “highly distinctive and skilfully crafted cuisine” (with “venison to the fore”) plus “attentive and courteous service” place it “at the top gastropub level”. NB – while “parking is potentially tricky, one could enjoy a delightful walk in Windsor Great Park before or after a meal here”.

“Impeccable!” – “Adam Smith has definitely added the wow factor to what was formerly the Restaurant Coworth Park” and with the Dorchester Collection’s 2023 revamp of this mansion’s main dining room – replacing its formerly bland international luxe looks with very successful, “subtle but stylish” surroundings – it is fully emerging as one of the south east’s foremost gastronomic destinations (“surely it must be heading for two Michelin stars”). “Several snacks lead into the hospitality masterclass which Adam and his team, including front of house, achieve at each visit”. “Bread is not just a side issue but a course in itself and something to be savoured” and is followed up by “exciting dishes realised with flair” and “a fantastic lightness of touch”; all “superbly presented” by the “smiling, thoughtful, nattily dressed staff”. And “the cheese room is an experience in itself”. “The best meal we have had in a long time”: “pricing has gone up quite significantly” but no-one complains about this – they say it’s “still worth it as the food is phenomenal”. “Gorgeous grounds to wander around too”.

Adam Handling’s charming and well-known converted pub in Old Windsor was launched in 2021 and offers a wide and flexible array of eating options – from pub classics, to a selection of steaks, to a tasting menu for £65 per person. Fancier options, like the “totally brilliant private dining room”, inspire some reporters’ best meals of the year and everyone likes the venue’s “very busy hum”. Not all reports are quite so enthusiastic, but even a disappointed reporter rated the food well.

This comfortably decorated national chain feels akin to dining in a hotel, but minus the bedrooms; and its two London branches – near the Tower and in Putney – benefit from attractive Thames-side locations, where “it’s lovely to sit outside on a warm day by the river, or year-round in one of their igloo pods”. “There’s a warm fire inside with cosy armchairs”, too, which make the venues “fine for coffee or snacks”, although for more substantial meals “the food is only OK”.

This red-brick steak restaurant and bar is part of the carnivorous, three-strong Rare Breed Dining group, with its own in-house smokery and butcher overseeing prime cuts of meat (part of a trendy package that also includes on-site wreath- and candle-making classes); results from the menu (relayed via daily specials boards) are “tasty” and there’s a “lovely outdoor area for al-fresco dining in summer”.

2021 Review: A refurbishment/relaunch a few years ago added to the charms of this good all-round boozer, handy pre- or post catching the nags at Sandown Park, whose food was consistently well-rated last year.

2023 Review: “Good solid food” and a “large outdoor space for eating” makes this country pub a handy refuelling spot for visitors to the RHS gardens at nearby Wisley.

“Yes, just a local pub – but owned by José Pizarro”, godfather of Spanish cuisine in the UK. Unsurprisingly, the maestro’s first gastroboozer-with-rooms (and first venture outside the Big Smoke) is “mainly tapas” and by most reports it’s “well worth a detour” to the Surrey ‘burbs, with “very good outdoor spaces” a further boon. Top Menu Tip – “especially good pork rib paella”.

2021 Review: “Upmarket pub” with a dozen bedrooms, handy for Ascot Racecourse, which was taken over by new owners (Barons Pub Company) in late 2018. Not all reporters are happy with the new ownership, but upbeat feedback praises its “well-rounded menu, relaxed style and pleasant service”. Reflecting the up-and-down reports, we’ve left a rating till the next Diners Poll.

2024 Review: The second link in the growing Brucan Pubs group, set up by James Lyon Shaw and Jamie Dobbin, who met during their days at the famous Ivy. By all accounts the three-year-old venture is “surprisingly good for a somewhat unprepossessing area”, and with “good-value set menus” to boot. Top Menu Tip – “in my experience the best dishes are the slow-cooked ones”.

Taken over by Simon King and Matt Larcombe, ex-head chef of The Crown at Bray, three years back, this smart red-brick former beer house in the Surrey ‘burbs enjoys a “lovely setting” (“the opening of the beautiful garden last year is a lovely addition for warm summer evenings”). At the pass, “new chef Dan (Lee) has done brilliantly to retain the standards of this ‘fine-dining’ pub”, turning out “outstanding” and modern takes on British pub grub – though a visit can get “pricey” (especially if you avail yourself of the rarer vintages on the wine list).

2024 Review: This “stylish restaurant” near the bridge to Windsor has been run for almost 50 years by co-founder Lin Gilbey, who is responsible for its interior design. Her husband and business partner Bill (scion of the Gilbey’s Gin dynasty) sadly passed away in 2022, but Lin has pressed ahead with improvements, acquiring the premises next door to offer corporate entertainment and private dining facilities. Modern British cooking is generally felt to be “solid”.

Lovely river views are a big draw to this bar and brasserie, whose glass-walled dining room and (above all) coveted terrace enjoy a “great” setting on the Thames near Teddington Lock. The modern European cooking (more “competent” than it is exciting, perhaps) nods to the location with plenty of fish and shellfish alongside afternoon teas – and, given the superb location and “friendly” staff (they also lay on regular jazz nights) it’s a decidedly useful sort of space.