Cheshunt, Greek Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: This Greek-Cypriot taverna in Bounds Green has earned a wide following across north London over 50 years for its generous ‘Special Mezze’: various cold starters followed by charcoal-grilled meats and fish specialities. Family-run by Adreas and Anthony Antoniou, it has recently been given a modern revamp.

This “small and crowded” grill on Islington’s main drag serves “reasonably priced Turkish, Kurdish and Greek-style food” and is “clearly a local crowd-pleaser”. The ‘Hidden Gem’ basement is available for private parties.

“Everyone seems to be a regular” at this “old and long-established Greek restaurant” – a large Primrose Hill landmark which is still “buzzing from morning till night”, as it has been for over three decades now. “The longstanding staff are very friendly” (but “service is not too good at busy times”). “You can always find something to eat on this long menu, but – though filling – it is very basic”.

London… Mykonos… er, Riyadh… – that’s the lineup for this small international group of luxe Greek restaurants owned by Peter Waney (who, with brother Arjun, has created hits such as Zuma and Roka). It flies slightly under the radar compared with its more famous stablemates, but shares the same virtues: the vibe is buoyant and the food (a Greek-inflected mix of the raw seafood, fish, grills and pasta popular with globetrotting types) “is great… so fresh!”

“Posh Greek food” – “very nice sharing plates” from a “well-designed menu” where “delicious moussaka” rubs shoulders with “caviar” and top steaks – wins praise for this Marylebone venture, as does its “great wine list”. It’s a sibling to INO (see also), and likewise run by an Athens-based team who hold a Michelin star for that city’s ‘Funky Gourmet’.

One or two “outstanding” reports inspire interest in this modern Greek off Soho’s Carnaby Street, whose name means ‘wine’ in ancient Greek (there’s an all-Hellenic list), and where the menu focus is on plates from the charcoal grill. (It’s from the team behind Opso, who also run the two-Michelin-star Funky Gourmet in Athens).Our rating errs on the conservative side, but we still don’t get as many reports on the place as we would like. Top Tip – very good value set lunch.

“Great hosts and a wonderful bubbly venue” – not to mention affordable prices for its simple food, much of it from the charcoal grill – underpin the appeal of this cosy Greek-Cypriot café, off the Harrow Road in Maida Vale. A couple of newspaper articles in 2022 have brought it to the attention of more people of late, but it’s been there for yonks.

“One of the best fish restaurants anywhere” – Costas Spiladis’s London outpost of his luxurious international chain channels the brilliance of the Mediterranean, with its bright, white walls and high ceiling. “The fish is displayed beautifully on ice at one end of the venue and hosed down every 20 mins or so” – “a fantastic selection that always delivers a fabulous meal”. Sadly, though, you have to be a Greek shipping magnate to afford it nowadays (“just reading the menu is a shock”), and even those who think it’s “worth the hype” can find it “so eye-wateringly expensive, I think it might be one visit per year from now on”. Those less well disposed to it, say “if you like being served a smidgen of food and being charged a fortune, this restaurant is for you!”

“An excellent Greek, with a brilliant, relaxed atmosphere. Being Mediterranean, the staff love children. Highly recommended!” – In the thick of Portobello, this cosy spot is only three years old, but fairly conventional in style, complete with ‘traditional comfort cuisine’ and live Greek music.

This “hidden gem in Barnet” has a “fabulous Greek/Mediterranean menu, made ‘posh’ with additions such as ceviche and miso aubergine”. The “food is fresh, tasty and always delicious”, and “they’re so welcoming”. Founder Louis Loizu promoted former apprentice chef Gerry Sands to co-ownership last summer, at the tender age of 21.

This “interesting new Cretan” (named after Crete’s 1905 revolution) in Fitzrovia claims to be the first Cretan restaurant anywhere outside Greece, and presents the island’s distinctive version of eastern Mediterranean cuisine, along with natural wines from some of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions.

Opened in June 2023, from the team behind nearby Opso, this contemporary Greek seafood specialist in Marylebone follows a zeitgeisty, no-waste ‘fin-to-gill’ philosophy, with fish off-cuts, tails and bones either grilled or used to make stock. Expect some meat choices, and plenty of Hellenic wines.

“A complete circus!” – Richard Caring jovially sticks two fingers up to good taste at his willfully opulent and theatrical riff on Mayfair-meets-Roman-orgy, where staff are clad in togas, and winged statues and nymphs flying around in the ceiling murals look down on you as you eat. Compared to the “OTT” riot of the decor, it’s easy to overlook the luxurious menu, which is Italian- and Greek-accented, with a bit of caviar thrown in for good measure. There’s the odd report of “appalling service” (“trying to hurry us to meet their deadline”) or dishes that misfire badly, but savage put-downs are absent from reports; even while acknowledging that it is “crazily expensive” and “full of selfie takers” (obvs!).

This “chic-casual” venture from the Pachamama group in Notting Hill focuses on “modern Greek fusion food”, and has picked up plenty of fans in its inaugural year thanks to its “sophisticated cooking” and “buzzy” vibe. One repeated gripe: “bringing dishes when the kitchen fancies can lead to an odd sequence to meals!”