Cheshunt, Mediterranean Restaurant Guide

“Lovely and adventurous”, Tel Aviv-style small plates “zinging with flavour” draw a busy crowd to Israeli chef Oden Oren’s 30-seater in Dalston – an immediate hit from its opening in 2019. It’s a “charming” place, but there’s one catch: “it’s hard to hear your companions over the din”. A spin-off deli opened at Broadway Market in early 2023.

2021 Review: This Victorian-era local on Newington Green relaunched three years ago as a gastropub and has “maintained its standards” despite rising popularity – “long may it stay that way”. The blackboard menu “tries hard to cater for all tastes”… and by all accounts largely succeeds. Craft beers and “reasonably priced” wines also go down well.

“Stunning salads, amazing pastries” and a “lovely variety of interesting prepared dishes” have stood the test of time at Yotam Ottolenghi’s “vibrant” deli-cafés – still hugely popular 22 years on from the launch of the first in Notting HIll. The Israeli-born chef and writer has had an enormous influence on the way people shop, eat and cook, helping to create a whole category of modern Middle Eastern cookery and “totally living up to his reputation as a leading expert in vegetarian cuisine” – even though his premises serve meat and fish. An occasional quibble – “the prices? Too high for a few stalks of broccoli even taking into account the undoubtedly skills of the Chef!”

Under a picturesque Georgian terrace, close to St John-in-Hampstead church, this basement tapas bar is a prime destination in the area thanks to its “consistently delicious food, attentive staff” and “lovely atmosphere”. The menu adds Italian elements to its Spanish core, and there’s a “very good wine selection”.

This “superb, cosy local” in Belsize Park now also has an offshoot that’s proving “a great addition to St John’s Wood”. The focus is on “interesting food cooked with fire” from chef-owner Jake Finn (ex-LPM and The Ritz), who takes inspiration from Mediterranean, Peru and Japan: “a sharing concept from a menu that’s not huge but with good variety and lots of veggie options”. Both sites provide “wonderful combinations, simply done”, with meat, fish and veggies that are “both charred and succulent”. “It’s not inexpensive, but great value given the quality of ingredients and cleverness of the cuisine”. Top Menu Tip – “whole sea bream, fennel, radish and fresh herbs is a standout”.

“Not missing a beat and at the very top of its game” – this culinarily renowned East End fixture, near Columbia Road flower market, scored highly all round in this year’s annual diners’ poll, putting any doubts about its staying power to one side. Its Med-influenced, superior bistro cuisine delivers “extraordinary flavours”, service is very “charming” and all in all, it’s “a delightful, unpretentious neighbourhood place”.

“Loud… buzzy… delicious” – this “original, exciting and cool” venue designed by the neighbouring Tom Dixon studio, by Granary Square, “is a full-on, in-your-face Tel Aviv sort of place”. The “superb Israeli small plates, which you are invited to share” are overseen by executive chef, Assaf Granit: “very flavoursome food with some unusual combinations”. “Tables are very close” inside, which is “noisy”, with “drum and bass in the background” and lots of chatter; “so, it’s best to go for lunch on a sunny day on the terrace and take in the views over the renovated King’s Cross area”. Top Menu Tips – “their signature polenta starter remains strong… a must. Octopus is amazing, tender and tasty. Desserts are also a high point… as is the powerful coffee!”

“A find!” – “Sit at the ground-floor kitchen bar for a fun, close up experience” at this sophisticated Shoreditch joint, where Jon Lawson and his team provide accomplished sharing plates (often with Moorish touches) and deliver them in a “knowledgeable and friendly” manner. But ratings took a hit this year, with the odd review referring to cost-of-living concerns: “most of the food is excellent but the size of the portions for the price charged was ridiculously small and felt like a starter at the price of a main. For the premium cost, you might expect comfy seating too!”

The “lovely Moorish/Spanish sharing food” at the little sister of Sam & Sam Clark’s Moro next door in Exmouth Market – and also its spin-off in Hackney Road – makes them “a go-to place when you don’t know where to go”: “an all-round crowd-pleaser, good for meat and non-meat- eaters alike”.

2023 Review: “A reliable spot for light Italian-style lunch or dinner” near Silicon Roundabout, with a strong drinks list courtesy of its co-founders: sommelier Michael Sager of Sager + Wilde and mixologist Marcis Dzelzainis. “The pizza dough is some of the best and the toppings are very different from your usual Italian”, the pasta is home-made, and the grills are “just as good”.

“Gastropub heaven!” – this basic boozer on the busy Farringdon Road is where the gastropub revolution started in 1991, and it’s “still fabulous after all these years” – “no fuss, no pretence, just wholehearted focus, as ever, on simple yet perfect flavour combinations. Unbeatable!”. Head chef Edward Mottershaw celebrates two decades as head chef this year, and still chalks up the daily changing menu of Mediterranean-influenced dishes a matter of minutes before service, ensuring “simplicity and perfection without scary prices”.

“Looking like a typical London pub, but serving a good range of tapas” makes this Victorian boozer in the backstreets between King’s Cross and Russell Square a little out of the ordinary. But “while some dishes are very good, others can be a bit hit and miss”.

“Stunning salads, amazing pastries” and a “lovely variety of interesting prepared dishes” have stood the test of time at Yotam Ottolenghi’s “vibrant” deli-cafés – still hugely popular 22 years on from the launch of the first in Notting HIll. The Israeli-born chef and writer has had an enormous influence on the way people shop, eat and cook, helping to create a whole category of modern Middle Eastern cookery and “totally living up to his reputation as a leading expert in vegetarian cuisine” – even though his premises serve meat and fish. An occasional quibble – “the prices? Too high for a few stalks of broccoli even taking into account the undoubtedly skills of the Chef!”

“An exceptional list of wine with so many to choose by the glass that it’s always possible to try something a bit different” is the key selling point of this popular modern wine bar chain. Its culinary attractions are less reliable – the food can be “surprisingly good” but is too often “essentially average”; service can be “accommodating” or “rushed”; and the ambience can be “better if you can sit outside”. But its “excellent value” drinking and “lively” style carry the day. In particular, the “conveniently placed” King’s Cross branch has a “great location, which makes it a winner”. Top Tip – “creditable set lunch at a pretty restrained price”.

2021 Review: This “very good modern Turk” uses high-quality ingredients, including organic meats from Wales, to produce some interesting meals in this under-served town, and it “gets busy and can be very noisy”. There’s a spinoff branch in Berkhamsted.

“Long established in St Albans”, and part of a five-strong, sustainability-oriented chain, this glass-roofed outfit by the cathedral continues to please with its “jolly good” bistro cooking (the latter recommended for its “consistent quality” and equally “good value”).