British, Modern Restaurants in Chigwell
1. Frog by Adam Handling
British, Modern restaurant in Covent Garden
35 Southampton Street - WC2E
Many “magical and simply sublime” meals were reported this year at Adam Handling’s “exceptional” Covent Garden HQ, whose open kitchen delivers “creative, passionate and sustainably resourced modern British cooking” (“intricate beyond belief in presentation; and a delightful explosion of taste and texture”). The “buzzing” setting is kept in “relaxed” mood by the “fun”, “slightly irreverent” service. The catch? “You get an incredible meal, but it comes with an incredible price tag!”
2. 24 The Oval
British, Modern restaurant in Oval
24 Clapham Road - SW9
In the thin area near Oval tube, this neighbourhood bistro is worth remembering. A sibling to Knife in Clapham, its “old-fashioned modern British cooking” puts a similar emphasis on steak and other grills, but there’s a good selection of dishes and – albeit on limited feedback – it wins praise for “excellent all-round value”.
3. Clarke’s
British, Modern restaurant in Kensington
124 Kensington Church Street - W8
“Terrific ingredients, cleverly but unfussily combined” has long been the hallmark of Sally Clarke’s “impeccably run restaurant” in Notting Hill, which has been at the cutting edge of promoting seasonal, Californian-inspired cuisine since 1984. “It’s on the pricey side, but quality remains superb”; the setting is “romantic”; and the service, from a loyal and seemingly well-looked-after contingent of staff is “excellent, all overseen by Sally herself”. The “marvellous” wine list has an “unusual emphasis on North American wines” and some “reasonably priced alternatives to famous names”. Top Tip – “the good-value daily lunch set menu is a fantastic way to try this restaurant out”.
4. The Guildford Arms
British, Modern restaurant in Greenwich
55 Guildford Grove - SE10
Co-owner Guy Awford’s “brilliantly executed, classically inspired” cooking is well above “pub grub” standard, and has established this “well-maintained, upmarket” Georgian tavern as a leading option in Greenwich.
5. Maddox Tavern
British, Modern restaurant in Westminster
47 Maddox Street - W1S
“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.
6. Boisdale of Canary Wharf
Scottish restaurant in Canary Wharf
Cabot Place - E14
“If you are not planning a return to the office, the largest selection of whisky ever seen” helps round off a business lunch at this Canary Wharf branch of Ranald Macdonald’s Caledonian group. “The restaurant prides itself on good Scottish ingredients… shellfish in season… excellent fillet steak” and “tables are sufficiently spaced for private conversation”. Top Tip – “regular visitors may join a club which gives discounts on wines and they host musical events in the evenings”.
7. Hans’ Bar & Grill
British, Modern restaurant in Chelsea
164 Pavilion Road - SW1X
A very appealing looking spot, in one of Chelsea’s more chichi little enclaves – this café bar is part of nearby boutique hotel, 100 Cadogan Gardens. It’s not the cheapest venue, and service can lag, but for a breakfast or light shopping lunch it’s praised (albeit in limited feedback) as “a good all-rounder”.
8. Barge East
British, Modern restaurant in Hackney
Sweetwater Mooring, White Post Lane - E9
“It’s so fun being on board a boat!” – this 120-year-old barge is moored in Hackney Wick, near the Olympic stadium, and is also surrounded by gardens providing an alternative backdrop to a meal. All reports agree on its “fantastic food and atmosphere”: there are a variety of menus, including tasting and group options, all featuring imaginative modern British dishes.
9. Smith's Brasserie
British, Modern restaurant in Ongar
Fyfield Rd - CM5
Established in 1958, this Essex institution is well known for its “excellently cooked fish with some imaginative and well-executed dishes”, served in “generous portions” by “well-trained and extremely welcoming staff who provide great customer service”. It’s “always buzzing with a great atmosphere” – “and if you’re lucky you might spot Rod Stewart… a regular”.
10. The American Bar, The Stafford
American restaurant in St James's
The Stafford, 16-18 Saint James's Place - SW1A
The “great vibe” created by its tranquil St James’s location and retro Americana helps create a feeling of luxurious nostalgia at this long-standing fixture. With the hotel catering now overseen by Northcote’s Lisa Goodwin-Allen, the menu has been usefully re-imagined in recent times and has a heartier, more distinctive US spin (steaks, dogs, pastrami rolls) than it did of old.
11. The Five Fields
British, Modern restaurant in Chelsea
8-9 Blacklands Ter - SW3
“For a very civilised meal”, Taylor Bonnyman’s “refined” and “romantic” venue – in a Chelsea townhouse, hidden way near Peter Jones – has become a huge hit: out of the PR limelight, but in the Top 40 most-mentioned restaurants in our annual diners’ poll and “well worthy of its Michelin star” thanks to its “immaculate but unobtrusive” service and Marguerite Keogh’s “superb and assured cooking”: “wonderfully light, creative, beautiful and flavoursome food” from “their own kitchen garden in Sussex” (which the most ardent fans feel is “at a level above their tyre-company rating”). Its ratings slipped a little this year amidst cost of living concerns (and a number of reporters noting that “it’s a pity that they only do a tasting menu”). As a result, its style can appear more “hushed” and “formal” and “very expensive” (“we find it just too costly to visit anymore, although we love this place as one of the most amazing providers of interesting and totally divine food”). That’s still a minority view, though – for most diners it’s just “just a brilliant experience”. Top Tip – “stellar wine selection”.
12. Seven Park Place
French restaurant in St James's
7-8 Park Pl - SW1
A “real favourite” of well-heeled foodies, this classy if relatively unsung Mayfair hotel dining room boasts in “William Drabble, the most underrated of chefs – and one of great longevity” after 15 years at the helm. There is an eight-course ‘Menu Gourmand’ (for £125), but also à la carte options (starting in the evening with a two-course meal for £82 – lunchtimes are cheaper).
13. Corrigan’s Mayfair
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
28 Upper Grosvenor St - W1
“Excellent traditional British cuisine with an Irish accent” helped win very consistent praise this year for Richard Corrigan’s comfortable Mayfair bastion of ‘all that is coastal, wild, furred and feathered’. It’s a “classic dining experience” but service is “wonderfully welcoming” and is “pitch perfect” for business entertaining in particular. Top Tip – “the set lunch menu cushions the blow to the wallet”.
14. Ormer Mayfair by Sofian, Flemings Mayfair Hotel
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
7-12 Half Moon Street - W1
Although this luxurious Mayfair hotel dates from the 1850s, its swish basement dining room owes its looks to the 1930s. Under chef Sofian Msetfi, the “fabulous” cuisine (choose either a 5 or 7-course ‘tasting’ option) continues to achieve high ratings with a recently awarded Michelin star and even the weakest report this year awarded “full marks for presentation and service”. “A friend of mine who swears not to visit hotel dining rooms granted it high praise after our dinner there!”
15. 108 Brasserie
British, Modern restaurant in Marylebone
108 Marylebone Lane - W1
This “well-run spot” with outdoor seating attached to a hotel on Marylebone Lane makes a “very useful venue for lunch when in the vicinity”, with an offering that “seems to have something for everyone”. “It’s nothing exceptional in one sense, but a menu of properly prepared classics is the sort of thing that sounds easy but needs to be done well… and it is”.
16. Bellamy’s
British, Modern restaurant in Mayfair
18-18a Bruton Place - W1
“A haven of calm in an ever-changing world”: “they cater for the most conservative of palates (and the deepest pockets)” at Gavin Rankin’s “old-school, brasserie-style restaurant in Mayfair” (which had the rare privilege of hosting the late Queen Elizabeth on a couple of occasions). Its Anglo-French fare is “super reliable, if not exciting” and service “immaculate”. “If you like the kind of place where you still need to dress up a bit, this is it”, but “the ambience is set by its older, quietly-spoken crowd: don’t visit if you are planning a loud-laughing night!”. Top Menu Tip – “good value lunch menu; and staples such as iced lobster soufflé, smoked eel mousse and steak tartare”.
17. Eat 17
British, Modern restaurant in Walthamstow
28-30 Orford Rd - E17
2021 Review: “In the heart of Walthamstow Village”, this “great neighbourhood spot” – a Spar supermarket with kitchen attached – wins praise for its “quality” cooking (“the 2019 Harden’s description of pub-type grub underplays its standard and originality”). “Very relaxed and welcoming for young children”, the venture’s best-known innovation is bacon jam, which you can buy by the jar in various flavours. Other branches have opened in Hackney and, most recently, Hammersmith (somewhat better-served areas, so these respective branches are somewhat less of a local lifeline).
18. Yardarm
British, Modern restaurant in Leyton
238 Francis Road - E10
2022 Review: Leyton deli and bottle shop that’s a fave rave for anyone living within striking distance (but we also received a very good report on it from a reporter living in SW19!). In autumn 2019, they opened an adjoining café serving snacks and small plates.
19. Silo
British, Modern restaurant in Tower Hamlets
Queens Yard, White Post Lane - E9
2023 Review: Very limited feedback (but all of it upbeat) for Douglas McMaster’s more-eco-than-eco, zero-waste project, above Crate in Hackney Wick’s canalside White Building, which – in its drive for ‘quality through purity’ and ‘a more primitive diet… born from clean farming’ serves a menu of wacky, meat-free small plates and very off-piste wines.
20. NEST
British, Modern restaurant in Hackney
177 Morning Lane - E9
2023 Review: This “outstanding” four-year-old is an “engaging but cramped little venue” whose “absolute bargain of a menu” from co-owner Johnnie Crow (ex-Harwood Arms and Anglo), makes it “well worth the trip up to Hackney (booking essential!)”. The meal is structured around one type of meat each month – chicken, game, wagyu – to minimise waste, and “service is personal, enthusiastic and charming”. “You’re unlikely to find much better value in town, with some truly stellar dishes given the mid-range price-point”.
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