Chinatown, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“A wonderful oasis of civilisation in the middle of tatty, tourist London” – Richard Caring’s “confident”, “old-school” Theatreland “icon” (est. 1896) hides behind intriguing etched-glass windows in an unpromising alleyway between St Martin’s Lane and the Charing Cross Road. A “seafood lovers’ mecca”: it’s yet again voted as London’s No. 1 destination for fish in our survey, and also – for the umpteenth year – the most commented-on restaurant in our annual diners’ poll. “If you want gourmet preparations, you need to go elsewhere” – the straightforward cooking includes “no bells and whistles” and the focus is on “really well-executed traditional dishes” (such as their celebrated fish pie; “excellent Dover Sole off the bone”; or “perfectly pan-fried King scallops”). It occupies a series of “old world, cosy, crowded dining rooms with photos of celebrity guests adorning the wood-panelled walls” and it’s “always a civilised pleasure to eat here”. “Patchy service” has sometimes been a concern post-Covid, but its rating rebounded noticeably this year and, all said, it’s judged as being “first-class”.

“Brilliant seafood and the best vibe” fuel the festivities at this upbeat venue – “still one of the most fun restaurants in London”, where “watching Soho life go by is just brilliant!”. The premises was converted almost 30 years ago from an Edwardian butcher’s, famous for supplying The Ritz, the Savoy and Winston Churchill – hence the name and wonderful interior. Grab a high stool, a glass of fizz and a simple plate of something fishy and it’s a great antidote to life’s challenges.

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

A “great concept, expertly delivered” – the two headline dishes are served up in posh, comfortable diner style at this nine-strong London group (with another dozen branches around the world). As a gimmick it doesn’t generate the buzz it once did, but both of the main dishes receive a good rep in feedback, in particular the “excellent and good-sized lobster” (and “for lobster it’s not that expensive”).

“Down a dodgy alleyway in Soho”, this “spectacularly camp new seafood emporium is presided over by a sculpture of Poseidon with mermaids perched at the corners of the bar”. Named for a “venerable” post-war fish and seafood institution that for decades operated just north of Leicester Square (to close in 2006), this “massive investment” is not a relaunch as such, but a homage to its former namesake by restaurant impresarios Jeremy King and Chris Corbin, who ironically ended up parting company with owners, The Wolseley Group, before the project’s ultimate debut in June 2023. After its first year in operation, it still feels like a work in progress. To fans it’s “OTT… in a good way” thanks to the “amazing decor” and a menu of “seafood heaven” (“Monkfish Wellington is an instant classic”). The verdict is split though by critics who think it’s just “ludicrously opulent”, “soulless” and “formulaic” (“as charming as a motorway service station, with decor that Bet Lynch would have been proud of; and overpriced food that’s more ‘Tesco Finest’ than catch of the day”). It doesn’t help that service can still be “a bit rough around the edges”; but with work it feels like this still has the potential to be a worthwhile institution in the making.

“Extravagantly sized platters” of “hot and cold seafood at good prices” are the winning proposition at this Soho venture from Amsterdam’s De Visscher family. It’s a “bright, clean and open space”, whose atmosphere can seem “a bit prosaic, but who cares when you can get stuck into a tower of fishy treats?”

Hang with a “smart, interesting-looking set of diners” at Costas Spiladi’s luxurious Greek venture in St James’s – part of his international chain, whose 10 other branches include three in NYC, as well as outlets in Miami, Athens and Dubai. It aims to evoke the brilliant blue waters of the Med and showcases an “excellent” array of fish and seafood on glittering counters of ice, where you choose your catch and specify how it’s to be prepared. On the downside, service can be “variable” and it is – predictably – “very expensive”.

“You know that you’ll get a decent meal” at these “unpretentious” ‘Fishmongers & Restaurants’ in Covent Garden, Marylebone and off Piccadilly, where you can buy retail from the wet counter or proceed to eat in at the adjoining dining room. “A wide variety of fish and seafood can be cooked to your specification” and “it’s the perfect place for some nice, simple cooking”. Any drawbacks? The food is “good but rather unimaginative”; “ambience is a little lacking; and the service level is not as good as could be”.

“Our favourite seafood place in central London”, chorus the many fans of this appropriately named outfit “in the touristic area of Covent Garden” – “I love this place for the location, the energy and the super-fresh dishes” (“there’s no greater fun than wrestling with a crab” here or the oysters and lobster!). “Attentive staff” and a “lively, unpretentious atmosphere” are part of the appeal, and the “quick service helps if you’re on the way to the theatre”. Any negatives? It “may be a bit cramped”, with an “interior that’s a bit stark for some”.

“I was blown away by the quality of the fish on my first visit” – this “tiny tiled fish restaurant” in Covent Garden “punches well above its weight” and is one of the most popular bets in our annual diners’ poll in the area. It also boasts a “great wine list” (it shares ownership with nearby wine bar 10 Cases). Despite all its virtues, though, it’s “very tight for space” – “some tables are bar tops with stools, although there are a few tables with chairs/banquettes (and on the pavement if it‘s not too cold)”.

Like a submarine, this famous St James’s basement – a colossal 1929 ballroom rescued and revamped by the late Sir Terence Conran in 1993 – now lurks out of sight and out of mind for most savvy Londoner diners: remarkably, it inspired zero feedback in our annual diners’ poll this year, a sure sign that the smart crowd moved on from its Q-bar, ‘grand-entrance’ staircase and designer-interior well over a decade ago. But, for a glam (if very pricey) night out, tourists and out-of-towners still keep it buoyant, attracted by its regular programme of entertainment fueled by posh brasserie nosh. Top Tip – especially if you hit the steak or caviar sections, à la carte prices here are pretty splashy. Maybe visit for brunch, Sunday Lunch or Mon-Thu pre-theatre, where there are prix-fixe menus for £40-£50 per head.

“Amazing grass-fed” USDA prime steaks (hand-cut and dry-aged for 28 days) are the USP of this NYC-based brand, whose London outpost has a Manhattan-esque location, on the ground floor of the landmark Adelphi Building, just off the Strand. No-one doubts the quality of the offering, and the odd reporter had their best meal of the year here (“amazing!”). But the level of value is a perennial issue and even a fan who rated their visit as “outstanding” noted: “the price is high… everyone seems to be either on holiday or on expenses!”

Three years on from a relaunch under its original name by Gordon Ramsay (it was formerly Kaspar’s), this elegant chamber with Thames views from the window tables has yet to regain the lustre it enjoyed before the hotel relaunched in the noughties. It’s not devoid of fans, but too often its cooking (of mainly fish and seafood) is critiqued for being “overpriced (and in some cases overcooked or over-sauced)”. Sceptics say Big Sweary’s name above the door is a saving grace – “if it wasn’t a Ramsay restaurant they’d struggle”. Top Tip – a good choice for a posh brek.

2023 Review: From Cream Group (owners of Cirque le Soir, Restaurant Ours, Wild and The Windmill Soho), this July opening in Mayfair occupies the erstwhile 120-cover site of XO (RIP). Former Elystan Street head chef Toby Burrowes heads up an extravagant offering, which includes a £3,000 ‘sunken treasure’ caviar platter; and a cocktail listed at £5,000 (a rare 1950s gin and a bottle of 1970 Dom Perignon BTW). All good PR. Opening in mid-July 2022, this new spot calls itself a ‘clubstaurant’ – not a term we feel needs encouragement.