City, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“‘Unchanged by time’ defines Sweetings” – in a quiet way, “one of London’s iconic restaurants”, although its clientele is almost exclusively made up of City brokers who have sustained it on its current site by Mansion House tube since the 1920s (it was founded elsewhere in the 1830s). “Unchanged service (efficient and friendly); unchanged team (some of whom – like the loyal customer base – are unchanged from the last century); unchanged atmosphere in the last 50 years” at least. Arrive by noon if you want to beat the traders to a seat at the small counter or sit in the dining room. “Superb fish” is “cooked simply and well in the English grilled style”. “Kick off with the modestly priced pint of Black Velvet served in a pewter tankard. Try a half-dozen really fresh oysters with a lovely red onion and red vinegar dressing (you can almost hear the sea!). Follow with the fried plaice, homemade tartar sauce and new potatoes in butter”. “Perfect”. “It’s not cheap” but “thank goodness it’s still there”.

2022 Review: “A stalwart for lunches in the City”, this “unpretentious” venue in “lovely Bow Lane by the famous church” has “kept its standards up” for 35 years. The outdoor seating was a major attraction during the pandemic restrictions, and prices are “very reasonable” for the area, while “the boisterous tables make it easy to have confidential chats without being overheard”.

2023 Review: This “unique” institution – a traditional City chophouse founded in 1757 – is “the sort of place cooking the kind of food that doesn’t exist any more… except it does here!”. Guests seated in 19th-century oak-panelled stalls feast on full English breakfasts and grills or pies for lunch followed by the signature stewed cheese pudding (there is no evening or weekend service). “My father took me there 65 years ago – it’s hardly changed, but there’s no longer an open fire!”

“A wonderful location overlooking St Paul’s and the river” – complete with “fantastic view of the Thames” – creates a “gorgeous”, if unavoidably touristy, setting for this South Bank pub, which is incorporated into Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. Locals support it too though: in particular it’s “a lovely spot for afternoon tea” and “even if the teas are Shakespeare-themed, they aren’t over-tacky”. The contemporary British food is also well-rated at other times.

2022 Review: The name says it all about this new ‘Britisserie’ (an ‘authentic British patisserie’), which opened on a corner site near St Paul’s in December 2019. Owners Daniel Jobsz and his mum honed their classic pie-making skills at markets, festivals and pop-ups from 2015 before they found the site, which incorporates a small courtyard. Full English breakfasts (in a tart, of course), plus epic mash and a good list of beers and other drinks complete the formula.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, this attractive operation makes the most of its spectacular setting overlooking Borough Market from a dramatic wrought-iron and glass structure (that once formed part of Covent Garden’s Royal Opera House). Flying the flag for traditional British cuisine – in particular steaks and Beef Wellington – it is most popular for business entertaining, and particularly well-established as a “reliable and enjoyable” destination for work breakfasts, with “decent food, professional service and strong coffee” (“just what you need when entertaining clients at 8am”). In terms of value for money, though, it loses out to numerous neighbours in and around the market.

Now moved to Ludgate Hill from the Paternoster Square perch that originally provided its name, this D&D London restaurant is a “decent and safe option” – although a more upbeat description has it “doing what the City enjoys, with high levels of testosterone and impressive steaks”. “Swarming with suits” – it’s a natural for business entertaining.

2021 Review: “A firm favourite for breakfast and brunch in Southwark” – this café-style fixture a short stroll from Tate Modern serves “a great menu to suit all tastes”, and fans say it’s “unbeatable”.

“The OG” of ‘nose-to-tail’ British cuisine and recherché offal-related dishes – Trevor Gulliver and Fergus Henderson’s Smithfield icon is “as brilliant as ever” after all these years (it opened in 1994). Occasionally reports accuse it of “complacency”, but for the most part they pay awed homage to its “top cooking and fine ingredients” delivered by “superb, genuinely engaging and caring staff”. There’s an “excellent wine list” too. “The matching stark white dining room” of this converted smokehouse “still has that Scandi-chic feel, but is oh-so-loud – perhaps the worst acoustic of any restaurant ever!”. Top Menu Tip – “Worth it for the roast bone marrow alone”; suckling pig is a favourite for a group celebration; and “it’s one place you must never pass on pudding!” (“amazing Marmalade Bakewell, Rhubarb Trifle, Steamed Sponge… all excellent)”.

“A most enjoyable meal in an attractive setting” is reported by just over half of reporters visiting the cheaper section of this rooftop landmark on the South Bank. The remainder, though, “expect much, much better at these prices”: “it has a great view but very disappointing food and service – trading off its location!”

“All the dishes are a wonderful hit to the taste buds” at this Spitalfields canteen. Despite its utilitarian decor, fans say “it just feels so relaxed” and is “a great but more accessible way to access the mighty St John cooking” with Fergus Henderson’s trademark ‘nose-to-tail’ approach (snails, faggots, pig’s ear soup etc). That said, one or two long-term regulars do feel it’s “gone off the boil” a little recently – “still good, but it does seem to have slipped a little”; perhaps just a blip? Top Menu Tip – “save room for the madeleines!”.

2024 Review: “Handy for the location” by the Thames, with spectacular views of Tower Bridge from its terrace, this modern take on the British chop house was created by the late Sir Terence Conran as part of his ‘Gastrodome’ complex in the 1990s. Nowadays owned by D&D London, it is a useful spot for tourists and business diners.