City, Scandinavian Restaurant Guide

Soren Jessen’s “slick, Nordic cafe in the City of London” occupies part of the Bloomberg Arcade and contributes to the development’s renown for offering “good food in the dry desert of the Square Mile”. It majors in Danish smørrebrød (rye bread with toppings): “nice for a change”, but “you can rack up a fair bill eating these delicate one-bite-and-they-are-gone appetisers” (though “there there are decent main courses such as fish, schnitzel and venison fillet”). On the downside, results can end up seeming “not as Scandi and varied as expected” – “I prefer IKEA meatballs, even if they are not as prettily presented!”

“Cakes to die for!” say fans of this tiny Scandi café in a cute Covent Garden cut-through, with a handful of seats outside in summer. Top Menu Tip – Prinsesstårta (a Swedish cake, layering sponge, cream and marzipan).

“Niklas Ekstedt’s trademark open-fire cuisine” has its first outpost (beyond Stockholm) in Westminster’s Hyatt hotel, where the “relaxed and peaceful ambience, theatrical open kitchen and flames” and “unexpectedly delicate flavours” win over most reporters. Its ratings would be even higher, were it not for the occasional sceptic who feels the performance “relies on the drama of the grill rather than the quality of cooking”.

“Tasty and authentic” Scandinavian dishes including “excellent fish” are on the menu at this “surprisingly cosy and stylish” Nordic outfit in Islington, where “attentive service” ensures an enjoyable meal. Top Menu Tip – “the venison meatballs with lingonberry sauce deserve a special mention”.

“A beautiful space with a Michelin three-star chef overseeing the kitchen” – Harrods continues to reinvent itself as a gastronomic hub with this blockbusting 2022 debut from an acclaimed Nordic chef. It occupies a newly constructed site on the top floor of the world famous department store. “Surprisingly spacious with a very high ceiling”: inside you can get a “nice view of the sparkling clean kitchen”; and outside there’s a glam roof terrace overlooking the Knightsbridge rooftops. The cooking combines Asian and Scandi influences and most reports are rapturous. Top marks are only missed due to the odd more nuanced account – “I had palpable excitement to try this Swede’s food, but was let down by ridiculous pricing and the mixture of some exquisite and some dud options”. Top Menu Tip – “they are justifiably proud of their milk bread: a crisp crust similar to croissant and a fluffy centre like the Japanese variety, served with miso butter and borage honey” (“the best bread I have – dare I say – ever had!”). The ‘Sweden vs Japan’ menu option “allows you to compare meats prepared in the style of each cuisine. Both are good but there is a significant contrast in textures”.