Cobham, French Restaurant Guide

There’s no doubting the “fantastic location” of this link in Raymond Blanc’s Heartwood Inns collection – a nook and cranny-filled boozer on pretty Downside Common with a heated outdoor tent and beer garden for added measure. Its victuals aren’t fancy but are “generally good” by common consensus, and continue to be of note for their moderate price tags (especially now they’ve relaunched their bargainous seasonal set menus).

“Yes, just a local pub – but owned by José Pizarro”, godfather of Spanish cuisine in the UK. Unsurprisingly, the maestro’s first gastroboozer-with-rooms (and first venture outside the Big Smoke) is “mainly tapas” and by most reports it’s “well worth a detour” to the Surrey ‘burbs, with “very good outdoor spaces” a further boon. Top Menu Tip – “especially good pork rib paella”.

Quaint, old-fashioned decor lends a “special” atmosphere to this “small neighbourhood restaurant” in St Margaret’s. It’s resolutely French in style, providing “good portions of excellent food” from a traditional menu, whose top features are a Plat de Fruits de Mer and 28-day aged Châteaubriand, both for £80. Be warned, though, “it gets extremely busy around rugby matches at Twickenham”.

This “excellent, family-friendly creperie” “overlooking the river” built a solid local following for its Breton cuisine under Lindsay Wotton, who sold up last year to retire after 35 years. Thus far, the new owners have maintained standards and changed little, with “good-value lunch specials, especially strong on the fish dishes” still getting the nod.

2022 Review: ‘A taste of rural France on the Fulham Road’ is the promise at this ‘gourmet traiteur’ in Chelsea: an early 2020 newcomer where dishes (to go or for delivery within 4 miles) are designed for reheating at home and prepared by Chris Hill, who most recently worked as a senior sous chef at The Ritz. It’s owned by Dimitri and Mira Plaquet, of a high-quality Belgian food group called La Villa Lorraine. They must be doing something right, as in mid 2021 they launched a second store in Wimbledon.

“Authentically Gallic bistro” near Kew station that’s built a strong following over 16 years for its competitively priced “French classics”. The retro 1950s styling – all gingham tablecloths and Impressionist posters – is part of the appeal. Top Tip – “good-value set lunch”.

“Correct Gallic fare where comfort rather than wow is the name of the game” sums up this “good-value French bistro” group, which has a flagship in Battersea and branches in Putney, Wandsworth Common, the City and at the Institut Français in South Kensington. Sceptics judge it “rather run-of-the-mill”, but more commonly it’s seen as a useful standby and continues to garner a voluminous amount of feedback. In particular, fans say, it’s a “favourite place for steak & chips because they do it the French way”.

You could be in ‘La France profonde’ at this “great neighbourhood restaurant” by distant Acton Green. Foodwise, it’s “more than a bistro – this is seriously good classical French cooking, more than worth the detour”. There’s “no greedy pricing, even on the wine”, and “if it feels a bit old-fashioned, that’s attractive in this era of chef worship and cult-like trends!”. Top Menu Tip – “the cheese soufflé is a must every visit”.

“An impressive and speedy pre-theatre set meal at the SE1 branch…”; “Reliable for quick lunch, and always has a discount…”; “Great Sunday lunch and a warm welcome for the children…” – at its best, this classic Gallic group is “a decent chain serving popular brasserie fare to a fair standard and with a pleasing bustle”. But there is a sharp disparity between its overall marks – which are average-to-low – and the celebrity of its backer; and one harsh diner’s comment carries with it a ring of truth: “I cannot reconcile how Raymond Blanc can live with his continued, if hands-off, connection with this creation. The accountants rule, menus are static and unadventurous; and standards vary between branches and visits; but it is many years since a visit was truly satisfying”.

“Correct Gallic fare where comfort rather than wow is the name of the game” sums up this “good-value French bistro” group, which has a flagship in Battersea and branches in Putney, Wandsworth Common, the City and at the Institut Français in South Kensington. Sceptics judge it “rather run-of-the-mill”, but more commonly it’s seen as a useful standby and continues to garner a voluminous amount of feedback. In particular, fans say, it’s a “favourite place for steak & chips because they do it the French way”.

This “stylish restaurant” near the bridge to Windsor has been run for almost 50 years by co-founder Lin Gilbey, who is responsible for its interior design. Her husband and business partner Bill (scion of the Gilbey’s Gin dynasty) sadly passed away in 2022, but Lin has pressed ahead with improvements, acquiring the premises next door to offer corporate entertainment and private dining facilities. Modern British cooking is generally felt to be “solid”.

With its “consistent no-frills French cooking” – charcuterie; “characterful small plates” and sharing dishes; plus a handful of modern French main plates – this rustic Battersea Rise fixture is always a “good bet” for an interesting meal and glass of wine. Founded by the team behind Les Caves de Pyrène, it drew attention for its small plate and natural wines formula a decade ago, although this is less of a stand-out combo now than it was back in the day.

“A decent attempt to reproduce Provençal cooking in Shepherd’s Bush”: Lawrence & Emily Hartley’s “nice local bistro” north of Brook Green – “a successor to a spot that was Café Rouge for many years” (and briefly Mustard, RIP) – provides “French classics” with “friendly service”. Critics feel that at times, “the food, though fairly authentic, can be just a bit underwhelming”; but the majority see “much to recommend the place” and feel it’s a “welcome venture” in this underserved neck of the woods. Top Tip – “good set menu”.

“This hidden French gem” – “on Battersea Bridge Road of all places” – “doesn’t look like much from outside, but the food is marvellous”. Patron Franck Raymond “exceeds expectations” with cuisine from his hometown of Evian in the French Alps, served in a “modest” but “calm and civilised” setting.

2022 Review: ‘A taste of rural France on the Fulham Road’ is the promise at this ‘gourmet traiteur’ in Chelsea: an early 2020 newcomer where dishes (to go or for delivery within 4 miles) are designed for reheating at home and prepared by Chris Hill, who most recently worked as a senior sous chef at The Ritz. It’s owned by Dimitri and Mira Plaquet, of a high-quality Belgian food group called La Villa Lorraine. They must be doing something right, as in mid 2021 they launched a second store in Wimbledon.

In Old Church Street, Chelsea, the first pub from the Gladwin brothers opened in mid 2024 – the latest addition to their ‘Local & Wild’ stable of restaurants supplied by the family farm in West Sussex (which includes Rabbit just up the King’s Road). The grand late-Victorian tavern on a corner site was lavishly renovated as recently as 2021, when it was known as ‘The Chelsea Pig’.

“Always reliable and first-class French cooking” is complemented by a serious wine list, including nine from Margaux, at this upmarket neighbourhood spot over two storeys at the Earl’s Court end of South Kensington.

A couple of reporters enjoyed their “best meal of the year” at this veteran family-run Gallic bistro across the Thames from Hampton Court Palace, which has won a loyal following in its 28 years. Chef-patron Jean-Philippe (JP) Gravier and his English wife Kim are these days joined by their chef daughter, Victoria.

2023 Review: This “lovely local friendly coffee shop” with a French accent and pastries is a spin-off from Eric and Sarah Guignard’s French Table next door, and does a particularly good Gallic take on the English afternoon tea.