Covent Garden, French Restaurant Guide

“Famous for being London’s top romantic dining spot with good reason” – this bewitching Covent Garden “haven” comes complete with an “exquisite” rear conservatory, with “a glass roof that opens in summer” and “the treat of a log fire in winter” – and “on the first floor you dine under a vibrant canopy of flowers”. By most accounts the European cuisine is “beautifully presented and tastes as good as it looks” too, although a slight slip in its ratings of late supports those who feel that “it’s more hit and miss since the pandemic”. No change in its “wonderful wine selection” however: “a surprisingly eclectic list of wines, alongside the bonus of an extensive cognac offering (and Armagnac dating back 70 years!”). “A must for a special celebration”.

The Balthazar website promises an ‘elegant evocation of a traditional French brasserie with an authentic Parisian feel’, and many reporters feel that this “big” Covent Garden destination delivers just that: “good Gallic classics, a bustling (noisy) atmosphere all in a touristy area” (“with a wide menu for everyone, kids included… French onion soup and steak frites excellent!”). But while fans say that “if you go with that in mind, it’s a good choice for the right occasion”, there’s a persistent minority happy to write the place off (“very disappointing food and rushed service trying to get you out ASAP”, “at a high price”).

“Good pre-theatre option very close to the Royal Opera House” – this Covent Garden fixture is “not overly expensive”, and even if its French brasserie food is sometimes “OK but uninspiring”, it “hits the spot for a quick dinner” and provides a very “buzzy” launchpad for an evening in the West End. Top Menu Tip – “excellent onion soup”.

A set from ’Allo ’Allo would struggle to seem more French than this “classic brasserie” near Covent Garden, billed as the capital’s oldest French restaurant and now under only its third family ownership in 74 years. But “pretty ordinary food and service” often undermine “the Gallic charm of yesteryear”, leaving some diners reporting a “rather a sad come-down from the glories of long ago”. More romantic types, though, feel that “holding hands in this legendary space still works at whatever age… with traditional brasserie food, good wines, and a pleasant atmosphere”.

2023 Review: Rihanna celebrated her birthday in February 2022 at this lavish Creole haunt next to The Ivy, in Covent Garden, where the former site of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon nowadays combines a restaurant (ground floor), bar (first floor) and roof garden. Whether the tastes of New Orleans are faithfully replicated is a matter of some dispute – there is the odd take-down of “overpriced and under-seasoned dross”, but most reports actually say its gumbo, Louisiana crab cakes and other eclectic dishes are “very good”.

“Hidden away in a basement at the side of Leicester Square”, “a marvellous little subterranean wine bar with a decent selection of mid-range wines that are not too overpriced for central London”. A “wide-ranging” food menu (including the famous ham-and-cheese pie that has been on the menu since 1971, of which about 1,000,000 portions have been sold) makes it a “great pitstop in tourist central – happily off the radar for most of them”. “You can’t drink in this place without feeling part of the iconic venue’s history”: its “tried and tested reputation” was established by founder Don Hewitson and is maintained by his successor Will Clayton.

“This long-established and popular brasserie adjacent to the Covent Garden piazza is reliable and fair value” – if not particularly distinguished in gastronomic terms. Given the ultra-touristy environs, though, many rate it as “perfectly adequate” as a “pre-theatre option close to the Royal Opera House”.

“Another winner from Jackson Boxer”, applaud fans of this Covent Garden yearling, which opened a year ago as a new central showcase for the chef behind Brunswick House and Dove. Attached to the Henrietta Hotel, the styling is very heavy on its Parisian bistro inspirations, but the contemporary style of the cuisine is at odds with ‘Allo Allo’-style clichés, albeit incorporating classics like Grilled Snails, Steak Frites and Raclette Burger. Ratings were hit by one or two reports of patchy service, albeit acknowledging some “fabulous” food.

“Tucked away at the Savoy” (where it overlooks the comings-and-goings at the entrance) – this “stunning” and “intimate” spot (just 26 seats) is “perfect for a romantic evening” (or “a special treat if you’ve had it with noisy restaurants”) thanks to its “fabulous” food served by “charming, attentive staff”. Led by James Sharp in his first post as head chef, it launched in 2022 and has been one of Gordon Ramsay’s better openings of recent years. It takes its name from the year when Cesar Ritz opened the Savoy, with Auguste Escoffier running the kitchen.

“Really solid brasserie-style food that’s nothing fancy, just well done” helps win praise for this chic, two-floor Parisian-style space in Covent Garden, overlooking Neal’s Yard: rotisserie chicken is a mainstay of the “fairly short menu” which regularly features terrines, grills, charcuterie and small plates. But while it’s universally acknowledged as “a great little place”, it’s maybe “pricey overall”; and it also doesn’t yet inspire the volume of feedback one might expect for somewhere associated with one of London’s better known chefs.

“Boisterous and friendly” ancient wine bar – “near Cambridge Circus and The Ivy” – which has delivered a “very French” experience since 1972. The “very tasty food” includes “a great cheese and charcuterie board”, plus "bourgeois" classics such as Boeuf Bourgignon or Toulouse sausage’n’mash with lentils on the side; and there’s an “incredible wine list, by the bottle or carafe”. It’s a “very laid-back” place where you might need to “share a table with equable patrons”, while “the members’ club downstairs is a cut above”.