Cumbria, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

This famous 400-year-old Lake District inn with its own brewery is the “perfect choice after a day fell-walking – you can eat in the bar or more formal dining room”, or outdoors in the summer. A less enthusiastic diner said that “as at many places in the Lakes, you’re paying for the location”, but still scored the food relatively highly.

“It is a 6-6-6 in my view!” – Simon Rogan’s converted blacksmith’s workshop on the southern edge of the Lake District towards Morecambe Bay is still riding high on its elevation in 2022 to three Michelin stars: the first UK restaurant north of Watford Gap to have entered the world’s top tier, according to the ‘Guide Rouge’. Most reports of the many we receive (it’s one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll outside London) say such acclaim is fully justified, with more than one diner this year describing eating here the “best meal of my life, as simple as that!”. “Waiters move as though choreographed in a ballet” (“they even spotted that I was left handed and so laid out my place settings to suit me!”) and deliver “gastronomic paradise” overseen day-to-day by head chef, Paul Burgalières, who produces a 15-course menu for £250 per person, with much of the produce coming from Simon’s nearby ‘Our Farm’. Niggles? Concerns about prices have risen somewhat year on year. There is also a fear among a small minority that the experience risks becoming so “polished to perfection” as to be almost “perfunctory”. The main take-away though? “Simply the best!”

“Excellent dinners and amazing breakfasts” both win praise for Simon Rogan’s less formal venue in a beamed cottage just around the corner from his famous foodie temple (and here you can also stay the night). It was responsible for some excellent meals this year, and while the food is in a more straightforward mould than L’Enclume, it’s above-par by the standards of a Cumbrian neighbourhood restaurant. That said, it doesn‘t inspire poetic feedback – diners merely think it’s very good at what it does.