Cumbria, French Restaurant Guide

It might look like “an old-fashioned, wood-lined pub room”, but Ben Queen-Fryer’s five-year old is in fact “a food paradise in the heart of the Lake District” that “deserves all of its accolades”. “A warming log fire and warmer welcome” abet cooking “with flair and invention” (“amazing what a one-man kitchen can produce”). You are not prisoner of a tasting menu here, with three courses for £68 per person available alongside a longer tasting option for £89 per person.

2022 Review: Ratings weakened this year at this luxurious Lakeland hotel, whose wood-panelled, traditional dining room provides a splendid vantage-point for gazing over Lake Windermere. One reporter felt that the “competent, but potentially excellent, cooking was not value for money, due to willing but overstretched service” – perhaps signposting that the blip was due to the tribulations of the times?