Cumbria, French Restaurant Guide

“Another ex-boozer I remember from adolescence, with patterned carpets and glowering locals now replaced by worshippers of the Michelin divinity” – and by all accounts Ben Queen-Fryer’s gentrified rural gastroboozer (est. 2017) “merits the star” it has held since 2022. “The food never disappoints with quality, quantity and interest” – all the more impressive given that this is a one-man band.

2022 Review: Ratings weakened this year at this luxurious Lakeland hotel, whose wood-panelled, traditional dining room provides a splendid vantage-point for gazing over Lake Windermere. One reporter felt that the “competent, but potentially excellent, cooking was not value for money, due to willing but overstretched service” – perhaps signposting that the blip was due to the tribulations of the times?