Dirleton, Italian Restaurant Guide

The food is still of a high standard – “Italian dishes but far removed from the usual Italian restaurant fare” at this local fixture. Run by chef Daniele di Marco, wife Daniela, father Angelo and brother Stefano, service is “always efficient and friendly” and it won a number of very approving reports this year (perhaps helped by a boost from The Times’s Chitra Ramaswamy in March 2024 who “love[d] Osteria‘s resolute conventionality. It‘s been too long since I‘ve encountered butter curls in a restaurant. How retro, and delightful”).